MDB6601AWW46 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed 11 T20 Torx head screws. Removed and replaced latch. Removed and replaced door seal and foam insulation strip - no additional tools required. Super easy to repair and didn't leak a drop afterwards.

Followed the suggestions on PartSelect - took off the screws on the door; removed 2 screws on the assembly that held it to the door; disconnected switches (hardest part) - they seem to fuse on(or rust) from the moisture; took the new (much sturdier part than original) assembly and plugged in the switches; set in place; replaced the 2 screws, replaced the screws holding the door panel - Complete - works great! Here we thought we would have to get a new dishwasher!!!!

I unscrewed the old rack adjuster assembly and screwed the new one on (this was after I took the rack out of the diswasher) -- I actually saved one of the old intact plastic wheels for future repairs.

I originally ordered the incorrect piece via the website, however when calling PartSelect to return the part they informed me that they could help me find the correct piece which they did. The correct piece arrived within 4 days. It was easy to install. The part works well. I'm very happy with the customer service.

Unplug the power cable. Remove 11 torx fasteners holding the inner door panel. Remove two sets of wires from old opener and install the new door opener assembly. Replace all the screws. About 10 minutes with a power driver.

Initially ordered the rack adjuster assembly, not realizing that I would also need the adjuster lever and adjuster cover, too. This piece is NOT what originally came with our unit. The line drawing for part 17 shows what our unit looks like. That part has apparently been discontinued and we were guided by Maytag to order this substitution, which is actually a Whirlpool part. Thought someone else might want to know this if they happen to have the same series of Maytag DW as we do. It fits well onto the rack, however, the location of the wheels on the unit are different than the original which means that the middle rack now slides out of the dishwasher about 3" less than it used to, which is kind of a bummer. All that said, the repair was a piece of cake and the hubs on the wheels are now metal instead of the original plastic. . .I expect this part to last a good long while!

Switch was not the same switch as what was in the unit, similar but switch was normally closed instead of open, so had to take the switch apart and change sides with the contacts! should be the same, but was not, so in the end worked fine after an adjustment!

1.Disconnected the electricty 2. pulled the dishwasher from under the cabinet 3. tilted the washer on it's face (water supply was long enough and did not need to disconnected.)4. unscrerwed the 2 plastic nuts that hold the heating eliment in place. 5. tilted the dishwasher back upright and removed the old heating element. 6.put the new part in place had a helper tilt the washer forward while i tightened up the two plastic nuts to hold the part in place.7 reattached the elecrtic conectors to the heating element. 8. pushed the dishwasher back in place. 9 hook the electricity back up. During step 4 i had to remove the electric connectors from the old heating element.

Wanted to change our dishwasher to a stainless steel appearance. When the panel was delivered in 1 day I might add it was flawless. I removed the old panel and the new panel attached to the dishwasher perfectly with the screw holes exactly lining up. The most inexpensive way to turn a kitchen into a stainless steel appliance look.

Unfortunately, my experience was unlike that of the other people who posted. While everything did go back together it was very difficult to get it all to press down tightly enough to tighten each set of screws. The project took about 2.5 hrs and I still don't think it is exactly right. I'm still going to have a professional out to finish the job. Also, the tool needed to complete the job was nothing fancy, but also not in everyone's home tool kit.

I removed the old door seal -- it just slips right out. Then I inserted the new door seal. One thing I noticed on the old door seal and also in your photograph is that the last inch or two of the seal on both ends is kind of sliced in half perhaps to make it fit better in the corner. But we decided not to cut it yet and have been using it uncut as it arrived in the package. It is working great! No leaking! So we're not going to cut it. Thank you for offering this great service. It saved us a lot of money since we didn't call a repairman.

First I watched the repair video provided at your site. Once I got the right part, it went like a breeze. Just a phillips head screw driver and 5 minutes of my time. Speaking if the right part.... I would suggest that you remove the 'LATCH-DOOR-NO Handle' from your parts list.It only cause confusion in ordering the part I needed, and a loss of several days time in the repair cycle.
All in all, a good repair experience. I would reccommend you to my " Do It Yourself" friends.
Thanks,
Harold L.

The repair was much simpler than I had anticipated. I just started removing screws, remembering what screws went where, and carefully removed the parts I needed to until I could get to and remove the filter unit. Installing the new unit was a snap, then it was just a matter of putting everything back together.

Took the new part and ran silicone around the opening for the ribbon cable to prevent steam from entering shock I believe causes this unit to constantly fail. Install the part. Then ran another bead of silicone around the touch pad to prevent water from entering. Hope this stops this unit from failing

If your model is the same as this one and it stopped working, 98% chance It's the control panel. Remove inner panel of the door. Unscrew the one screw on the control board box to get access to disconnect ribbon wire. Remove four screws two on each side of back of control panel. Install reverse of removal. Done!