MDB6601AWQ46 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Initially ordered the rack adjuster assembly, not realizing that I would also need the adjuster lever and adjuster cover, too. This piece is NOT what originally came with our unit. The line drawing for part 17 shows what our unit looks like. That part has apparently been discontinued and we were guided by Maytag to order this substitution, which is actually a Whirlpool part. Thought someone else might want to know this if they happen to have the same series of Maytag DW as we do. It fits well onto the rack, however, the location of the wheels on the unit are different than the original which means that the middle rack now slides out of the dishwasher about 3" less than it used to, which is kind of a bummer. All that said, the repair was a piece of cake and the hubs on the wheels are now metal instead of the original plastic. . .I expect this part to last a good long while!

I originally ordered the incorrect piece via the website, however when calling PartSelect to return the part they informed me that they could help me find the correct piece which they did. The correct piece arrived within 4 days. It was easy to install. The part works well. I'm very happy with the customer service.

I unscrewed the old rack adjuster assembly and screwed the new one on (this was after I took the rack out of the diswasher) -- I actually saved one of the old intact plastic wheels for future repairs.

I would not have figured it out had I not viewed the video on installing the latch assembly. The latch must be in the LOCK POSITION before installing. It would help if the latch was in the LOCKED position before shipment.

Removed the bottom tray. Removed the two clips in the top tray guides and removed the top tray. Removed the top spray arm and transfer tube by unclipping it from the top and at the back and then rotated it down and out. Removed the six screws around the upper pump housing and removed it along with the bottom spray arm. Removed the three screws holding the filter protector plate and removed it. Removed the two screws holding the accumulator / flow plate and removed it. Put it back together in reverse order careful to not over tighten the screws.

Removed 11 T20 Torx head screws. Removed and replaced latch. Removed and replaced door seal and foam insulation strip - no additional tools required. Super easy to repair and didn't leak a drop afterwards.

First I watched the repair video provided at your site. Once I got the right part, it went like a breeze. Just a phillips head screw driver and 5 minutes of my time. Speaking if the right part.... I would suggest that you remove the 'LATCH-DOOR-NO Handle' from your parts list.It only cause confusion in ordering the part I needed, and a loss of several days time in the repair cycle.
All in all, a good repair experience. I would reccommend you to my " Do It Yourself" friends.
Thanks,
Harold L.

from inside the door remove torx screws down each side and top , pull panel back , removed 6 screws from back of dispenser ,unplug 1 wire connection ,reverse procedure , real easy repair.

I remove the inner door panel, disconnected two quick release connectors, unscrewed the old part from the inner panel and installed the new one.

The new part arrived quickly and was the perfect match.

The repair was much simpler than I had anticipated. I just started removing screws, remembering what screws went where, and carefully removed the parts I needed to until I could get to and remove the filter unit. Installing the new unit was a snap, then it was just a matter of putting everything back together.

The original piece is 100% plastic (with metal shields only to prevent burning). The bushing of the arm was badly worn out in one side. The arm was no turning properly or at the end no turning at all. I decide to drill the new part in order to fit a brass bushing inside (1/4" ID, 5/16" OD, about 2" long). I expect it will last considerable longer. I would say this is a typical "defective by design" problem.

I removed the old door seal -- it just slips right out. Then I inserted the new door seal. One thing I noticed on the old door seal and also in your photograph is that the last inch or two of the seal on both ends is kind of sliced in half perhaps to make it fit better in the corner. But we decided not to cut it yet and have been using it uncut as it arrived in the package. It is working great! No leaking! So we're not going to cut it. Thank you for offering this great service. It saved us a lot of money since we didn't call a repairman.

Took the new part and ran silicone around the opening for the ribbon cable to prevent steam from entering shock I believe causes this unit to constantly fail. Install the part. Then ran another bead of silicone around the touch pad to prevent water from entering. Hope this stops this unit from failing

If your model is the same as this one and it stopped working, 98% chance It's the control panel. Remove inner panel of the door. Unscrew the one screw on the control board box to get access to disconnect ribbon wire. Remove four screws two on each side of back of control panel. Install reverse of removal. Done!

Switch was not the same switch as what was in the unit, similar but switch was normally closed instead of open, so had to take the switch apart and change sides with the contacts! should be the same, but was not, so in the end worked fine after an adjustment!