MDB4709PAM4 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

I took the valve off and actually hooked 110 volts to the vale and tried to blow through it and it would not let air pass through it. I replaced the the new valve in about 15 minutes and it works fine

removed kick panel with screwdriver, 90 degree turn of screw. Put towel under drain pump. Disconnect drain hose by loosening spring clip with pliers to provide access to pump. released spring clip on old motor while turning counterclockwise to separate pump from drain reservoir. inspect drain reservoir from inside machine to remove any foreign objects. Installed new pump by indexing attachment flanges to notches in reservoir and turning pump clockwise until locking tab makes audible click. reattach drain hose insuring hose is contacting "stop" ribs on drain hose pipe. Run wash cycle on machine to insure there are no leaks. Re-attached kick panel.

Pull dishwasher out a few inches. Disconnect spring from plastic connector with long nose pliers. Remove connector. Replace friction sleeve. Replace connector.Reconnect spring to plastic connector. This completes repair.

I followed another story for the same repair. Worked great.

Pulled washer out far enough to put 2x4’s under front feet. Removed front panel, I clipped wire connector and unplugged it. Pushed plastic locking lever in and twisted unit counterclockwise. Wiped inner rim and reversed above procedure to assemble.

Initial inspection of the issue and research suggested the door latch was malfunctioning / broken. I bought the part and expressed it home. The installation involved removing the door screws on the inside of the door, separating the front and back panels, unplugging the door latch, removing it from its niche and popping in the new one. Reverse the take apart and it was done. Very simple swap. Hardest part was juggling the two halves of the door and preventing the door for trying to close in the process as the bulk of the weight is in the outside half of the door.

The new part did not fix the issue. The door strike was the next part that could be broken / malfunctioning. I ordered that part as well and replaced it. In the process of replacing it I found that the original door strike had been installed upside down. I am guessing it was installed at just the right pitch, or maybe even bent at the manufacturing facility, so that it latched. No idea how it managed two years like that. I installed the new one correctly and the door latches perfectly. Both parts I removed from the unit I will retain if my new parts should fail in the future.

Killed the power and shut off the water. Unhooked and unplugged power, hot water and drain connections to move washer to middle of floor for easy access to all sides. Taking out the the main pump/motor assembly (the "Assembly")required taking out the flat white hot water tube that feeds the upper and middle sprayers. So, I started by taking out the two trays. Then, took out the lower, middle and upper sprayers. Then, tipped the dishwasher onto its front and disconnected the hoses and several electrical connections from the Assembly. Also, unhooked the drain pump motor and impeller from the Assembly since these are not included with the new Assembly. Took out the three sliding retainers to release the Assembly from the bottom of the dishwasher. Took a little gentle coaxing to release the seal between the Assembly and the tub bottom. Took the Assembly apart and found that the problem was the shaft bearing (ball bearings) between the motor and the impeller had rusted and subsequently failed. Therefore, buying just a new motor would have not helped. Inserted the new Assembly into place from inside the tub. Because of the tight seal, the Assembly had to be carefully placed into the tub opening and the seal gently pushed into place by working all the way around in 1 inch intervals. Took about three trips around the seal of the Assembly to ensure a tight, even fit. Otherwise, working unevenly around the perimeter will bind the Assembly and you'll have to remove it and restart. Once in and seated evenly in its place, reconnected the hoses and electrical connections. Installed the drain pump motor and impeller onto the new Assembly. Tested the unit for proper operation and leaks. Found no problems. Then re-installed the water tube, sprayers and trays inside the machine. Helps to jot down steps taken to disassemble so you retrace steps to re-assemble.

I had a common issue on many dishwashers, the final drain cycle was not draining but the pump was trying to turn. Also, the drain pipe was clean. This issue caused a burning smell, like a circuit board heating up. Half plastic smell, half electrical. I bought a replacement pump, followed the pump replacement video instructions from PartsSelect, and it was replaced in under 15 minutes without any tools.

Rubber friction sleeves on each side of the door provide resistance to prevent the door from quickly opening when unlatched. Over time the friction sleeve may crack and fail. Two friction sleeves are required for repair. Install a new sleeve on each side of the dishwasher door near the spring connector at the bottom.

Open dishwasher door.

Remove the screw from the left and right bracket at top of dishwasher door opening. Brackets secure the dishwasher to the countertop.

Gently pull the dishwasher forward to expose the door spring on each side of door at bottom.

Unhook the plastic spring connector from the left door spring hook by pulling the connector slightly forward and lifting from the door spring hook. Remove the old friction sleeve if still in place by sliding over the door connection hook. Discard the old sleeve.

Insert the new friction sleeve over the door spring connector hook and push until the friction sleeve is in position completely past the spring hook. Reconnect the plastic spring connector to the door hook.

Repeat for right side of door.

Close and latch the dishwasher door. Unlatch the door. The door should remain in the nearly closed position held in place by the friction sleeves.

Slide the dishwasher back to the original position under the counter top.

Insert the screws in the top brackets to secure the dishwasher.

Turn off the power to the dishwasher by turning off the breaker at the breaker panel.

Unscrew the inside door panel using a star screw driver. Unscrew the broken plastic handle and replace with the new part. Screw the door panel back on.

Turn the breaker back on to restore power.

Rather than just replacing the motor and seal, I figured it would be just as easy to replace the sump and pump assembly also. It makes sense because the extra cost is minimal and I have a completely new unit now. The repair is quite simple. Just three clips holding the sump and a few electrical connectors and the unit comes right out.

Very simple just remove the rakes and then unscrew the covers and pop out the old chopper assembly and replace with the new and then just put all cover back and it works great.

At first, I figured the noise was coming from underneath, and took off the bottom front plate. I noticed there was a leak from the center of what I later learned was the "pump" assembly. So I unplugged the dishwasher, disconnected the water and drain from under the sink, unscrewed the screws holding it under the counter, and pulled it out from under the cabinet. Then I laid it on its back, and realized where the leak was coming from. At this point, I thought the noise had been coming from the motor. So I detached the motor (required use of a socket, and realized it was "free", so thought the problem must be further up inside. Reached my fingers in where the motor mounts and found part of the chopper assembly. The "chopper" had torn itself free from the screen. Realized at that moment I needed to disassemble the pump from the top. Took off water distribution system, bottom water rotor, pump plate (required use of "star" screwdrivers, two different sizes), foreign object plate, and chopper assembly cover. Getting the chopper assembly cover off was hard; had to pry it with sharp l-shaped poker; it was adhered with calcium deposits. Finally got it off, found rest of chopper assembly (screen with hole in the middle where chopper had been), ordered chopper from PartSelect, took 3 days, installation was easy, the reverse of removing it. (It is not necessary to remove motor to replace chopper assembly.) However, it is still leaking from the bottom, and I'm at a loss as to how to fix that.

Removed dishwasher from cabinets replaced motor which was easy to do reinstalled in cabinets and ran cycle. All was good. No noise and no leaking.

Long story short, noticed one of two leaks and came to conclusion there is no workaround since sump pump gasket seems to be hermetically sealed to sump pump. Which is understandable because of water in area. Wife helped by soaking other parts that were removed and replaced, because of calcium buildup. Which we hope will extend life of dishwasher. I put 1 to 2 hours because I took my time and made sure all parts fit correctly and were back in their original place. Didn't want to take any chances in not covering bases. I am no expert, but definitely a diy'er. I believed I saved myself anywhere from $200 to $300 in labor costs by repairman. By the way, thanks Parts Select your info and site are awesome!!! The second part I had to order was the water inlet valve and your phone representative was a big help over the phone, please don't eliminate those positions. Overall total price of parts approximately $130 w/delivery. Well worth it, since a brand new halfway decent dishwasher starts at $550.