MDB4709PAM4 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

disconect water supply and drain hose, unscrew 2 screws hoding front of dishwasher to countertop, slide dischwasher out so you can tip on its door and remove 1 screw hidden behind plastic shield and pull motor out install in reverse order.

Removed old part and replaced with new part

Be sure to shut off power at circuit breaker and disconnect drain and water supply. Remove the dishwasher from the cabinet, lower it on its side. Remove three electrical connections from motor to various sensors. Remove three plastic wedges that secure the motor gasket to make a tight seal. The motor pops into the body of the dishwasher for removal. The replacement motor goes in just as you took it out. It took two people to set the motor right to ensure the good seal on the gasket for re-installation. Then turn it back upright and secure it in place. Couple suggestions, be sure to have ample towels around for leakage from water and drain lines. Be sure to cover the bottom of the dishwasher during disassembly and reassembly of the wash manifold. I dropped a screw in there and it took me some time to fish it out.
All in all, it went well. Don't pay a plumber for this job. I'm a clod and if I did it, you can.

thought it could be due to the overfill control switch,so ordered one and replaced one in the washer. However, it did not solve the problem. Having a repair company coming to look at the dishwasher. Tipped the washer on its back and switch was readily accessable. Only had to open plastic covering over the switch, disconnect the wires and install new switch and reconnect the wires.

Replacement parts from factory installed using u tube support video


Also replaced stop ends for top rack by removing old clip in to push down and lined up to secure in slots at end of rack, notice new plastic parts are installed by pushing hardware into slots downward until they clip into place

I did not get to repair my dishwasher using the part supplied by Partselect.com. I pulled my dishwasher out and found that the connector had fallen of the capacitor during installation. Happy to say that I returned the part for a full refund minus the shipping. Have bought from them before, and will again

Turned off power to the dishwasher. Removed the front panel via the screws on the inner wall of the door. Lifted and pulled out the front panel. Disconnected cable connections to fully remove the front panel. Pressed down on the latches to the left and right side of the door latch. Pulled out the door latch. Put in new door latch until it clicked into place. Reattached cable connections. Put the front panel back on with the screws. Turned back on power to the dishwasher.

I simply had to hook up the power cord to the dishwasher so i could plug it into the outlet rather than direct wire the appliance. Everything went very smoothly. Everything needed for installation other than tools was provided. Easy to follow instructions if you know a little about electrical wiring.

Followed the easy how-to video from PS. It was as easy as changing a light bulb.

Did the repair, but needed one extra step not described in video:

I followed the directions on the PartSelect Youtube video - very helpful! I do believe the heating element was the original culprit, as it had a "burn" area about the size of a dime that caused it to almost break into two parts. Obviously a point of failure.

BUT - after replacement, it still did not solve the problem of the dishes not drying.

After much web searching, I tried the diagnostic mode on the dishwasher, and that did a hard reset of the logic board and FIXED the problem.

So in all, it required both a new heating element AND a hard reset via diagnostic mode.

Looked on you-tube and it was so easy. Pump on bottom right. unplug pump and do a halfway turn. Plug the new one up and place the pump on, and turn halfway and its on. START your dishwasher

We took off the old one by disconnecting everything and put in the new one an re-connected everything. Aligning the pump was a little difficult.

Easily replaced motor and pump per video. Located high limit thermostat looking up from bottom and held on with two screw bracket. Reset code: push "Hi temp scour" then push "Air dry" then repeat push of "Hi temp scour" / "Air dry". Works like new - thanks.

I Removed the upper wash rack by removing locks on each front slide of rack. I laid a towel in the bottom of the washer to keep anything dropped, retrievable. I then removed the top screw closest to the spinner location. I then carefully pulled down on the mounting, which exposed the bad bushing lock. I removed the old bushing lock and replaced with new one. I then replaced the spinner with a push with one hand while holding the bushing in place with the other hand. You will feel a snap as all goes into place. Make sure new spinner spins freely. Now reinstall removed screw. Do not over tighten. Now reinstall lower rack, carefully aligning water feed in rear of washer, and making sure all rollers are back in sliding rack. Reinstall locking tabs onto sliding rack. Now slide out rack, it should not come off slider. Important: now remove the towel in the bottom of the washer. If left in place, you will have a fire during the drying cycle. Close the door and test your washer through a cycle. I felt confident and did a load of dishes. If all went well, spinner should be in place, not in the bottom of the washer.

Put in both a new element and thermostat. Did not fix problem. Using an ohm meter I did not measure any voltage to the thermostat. Suspect it’s a problem in the control unit, and decided to replace dishwasher.