MAV7650AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

I took the washer into the garage, removed access panel from back. Spun drive belt. This located the trouble with the pump. I removed pump with three sheet metal screws and hose clamps. Upon delivery, I notice the two pumps were not identicle. I called Cust Serv. They assured the difference was ok. I installed the new pump with three screw, put the belt and panel and hoses on and ran a test load of my junk clothing. No trouble.

After just over ten years of use (purchased in early 2001), my Maytag Atlantis started making an awful noise during the spin cycle. The noise was very loud and sounded like metal grating on metal. Looking through posts on partselect.com, I identified the problem as the drain pump and pulley. Looking under the washer I could see that where the pulley connected to the drain pump the metal was starting to fall apart. I ordered the drain pump with pulley and a washer belt. The belt didn't look overly worn, but I figured now was a good time to replace it. The parts arrived within a couple days, faster than I expected. I opened the top of the washer by inserting a putty knife about an inch in on each side to release the top which then easily clam-shells back. I removed the front panel by removing two screws in each corner. Using a few blocks of wood, I propped the washer up in the front so I could remove the drive belt. The motor is spring-loaded and is easily moved to allow for belt removal. Then I removed the two tubes that connect to the drain pump. The drain pump was quickly removed from the washer; only three nuts hold it in place. The new pump/pulley went back into place using the same three nuts. After reconnected the two tubes to the pump, I installed the new drive belt. I put the front panel back on, and seated the top back in place. Anxiously I watched and listened as the washer cycled through a load. To my relief, the problem was fixed. All told, it probably took about 15 minutes to make the repair, and with any luck I’ll get another ten years out of this washer.

It took a little bit of effort to find the service manual online so I could see how to take apart the console of the washer. I wanted to make sure of how to remove the front knob and timer dial because they can break easily if not done correctly.

I pried off the center cap of the knob, then pulled the center locking post out to release the knob and pointer dial. Then I removed the three phillips head screws on the top of the console housing and pulled the top of the control panel forward while pushing the bottom of the panel towards the rear.

The timer replacement itself was very simple. Remove the wiring harness connector and it is held in by one screw and a locking press tab. Be careful not to hit and break the retaining tabs on the 'AUTO TEMPERATURE' LED socket that mounts right next to the timer.

Reassmble in the reverse order and you are set to go.

1 I opened the top of the washer found the top plastic rim piece broken due to the fact that it cracked while unbalanced one time. Which made it leak which ate away the rubber seal . The parts were here fast and they were the right ones. Great job and I will tell everyone about you thank you verry much.

The installation was extremely easy - videos sure helped. I would recommend this site for appliance parts - parts came ahead of schedule.

figured out how to open the top of the washer(Two small tabs I pushed in with a putty knife. Looked for the area it was leaking. Slide the hose clamps off with a pliers and pull out hose.

Put clamps on new hose, replace hose and slide clamps to ends to seal the connections

First i unscrewed the bottom latch to check inside the maching, i then disconected the vertical style pump with pulley from its position and i discoverd a huge crack that was made by a loose pulley. After that i ordered another pulley from this web site easaly installed the pulley and now my maching works like new. The part was less than 50 bucks i saved over 200 bucks by not going out and buying a new machine.

pop top,remove 2 screws,remove front panel.remove 2 spring clamps from tub hose.reverse!

I pretty much followed the video,and read some of the other comments on how to do it. I only had one problem, the back panel had an opening of about 14"x14" to access the 2 rear balance springs. I finally laid the machine on it's face,so I didn't have to kneel down.The only problem with that,is the tub falls forward, making the springs farther away from the upper hole to attach/stretch, the springs to remove/install. I cured that problem by cutting a wedge out of a piece of 2x4, and stuck it between the top edge of the tub & upper frame. Worked great,held the tub in position, closer to the springs & locating holes. Taking them off is no problem,installing them, was made easier by using the wedge. The parts were a perfect fit, no more 'walking away from the wall' now! Thanks PartSelect

Turned off the water supply. Removed clothing and bailed out water fro tub. Removed back access panel. Turned washer over to access the bottom and removed drive belt by turning the large pulley attached the drum while pulling the belt over the pulley. Next remove the two hoses attached to the pump, remove the screws holding the pump on and remove the pump. Replace the pump by reversing the procedure, as for replacing the drive belt, place the belt on the motor and pump first and start it on the larger pulley and hold it on while you turn the pulley, it will pull the motor adjustment as you turn and when fully in the pulley it will be properly adjusted. Then replace the access panel, turn the washer upright, push back in place, turn on the water supply and replace the drain hose. Back in business. For me, while I was waiting for the new pump to arrive, I took the time to remove the agitator and tub and give it a good cleaning inside and out, but that's me.

Remove back compartment, remove belt disconnect two water rubber tubes from the drain pump, unscrew three screws securing the drain pump from the frame. Replace with a new drain pump, secure to frame with thee screws, reconnect rubber tubes, and replace belt.

Lift the lid and remove the auto-soap dispenser using a coin to turn the four locks. You will see a cloths hanger diameter wire that is held in place by nylon segments. The right end of the wire goes through the right hinge bushing. This is the torsion rod that hold the lid closed. There is a bushing that is on this rod and that is the part that fits into the hinge bushing. Remove this rod assembly by first removing the center nylon segment. Then pull out and the the left on the left hand side of the assy. Then fish it out of the right hinge bushing. Pay attention to how it is removed so you can replace it easily. I then replaced the broken hing bushing by pulling the broken one out with pliers. The new one snaps in. Now look at the bushing that is on the far right side of the rod that fits into the right hinge bushing. It will likely by seized up and corroded. Clean the corrosion off of the outside and use a lube to loosen the bushing so it will revolve freely around the rod. Now put it back together and your problem will be gone.

Pump is readily accessible at the back of the machine by taking off the access cover. First step is to disconnect power and remove drive belt off tub pulley which is the largest in the center - the takeup is in the drive motor mount but it seems easier to turn the larger pulley and wind the belt off. There are three 3/8 hex mount screws fastening the pump to the washer base and two hose spring clamps attaching the tub drain hose and outlet drain hose to the pump. Follow the directions in the utube video which is the best (most others don't give detailed directions and best method). The only caution I would give is that there is some water in the drain hoses so be prepared to mop it up with sponge and bucket or have some towels available. Install new pump (loose assemble two visible screws to locate pump and then loose assemble far side blind screw and tighten all 3),replace hoses snug to stops and assemble clamps, replace access panel and replace drive belt and plug washer back in.

used video provided on repair procedure.

I have a Maytag Atlantis ser.# MAV7600aww, I purchased in 2001. There are five screws to remove from the back of the control panel. The panel tilts forward. Push the front part of the bottom of the panel back and lift and the timer is easily accessible. Plastic hooks/hinges hold the panel in pal;ce. Fortunately I did not have to replace the timer.

I wanted to do a deep cleaning as some mold had begun to sour the inside of the drain tub. When I pulled the front panel off I discovered a loose plug on the motor. I Reconnected it and problem SOLVED!!!

Partselect.com was by far the best price and the return policy looked unbeatable. I am very happy with Partselect.com and would do business with them again!!! (Thank you, Lacey!!!!!!)