MAH5500BWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Had to move all the concoctions my wife uses on my greasy work clothes [ purple power, dawn dishwash soap,lestoil, etc..] Removed front , removed back panel..Replaced board then motor..Replaced belt while I was in there.I had already changed out the tub bearing assembly earlier..Quite a complex machine when you get in that deep..Runs like new...

Removed old motor installed new motor.

WoW, talk about an easy job. The hardest part was moving the washing machine out from the wall. It took 5 minutes to change the part out and 10 minutes to move the washer.

Removed old broken plastic grommet's and installed two new plastic grommet's. Attached new baffle using old screws. Used a short piece of picture frame wire to install the two new grommets by fishing them into place with out removing the washer drum.

I removed the screws around the front door. Then removed the front face. I removed the bolts holding the top down at front top corners. I removed the detergent dispensor. Next I removed the spring and hold down cable. I then pulled out the old boot. I then, with the help of my son, pulled the new boot around the drum. Then attached the cable and spring. Next pushed the boot into the front retainer. I then put the dispenser in and the front back on. Good as new. It was not hard as long as you have someone to help with pushing the boot around.

Removed four screws using elctric srew driver.
Pulled the old lid out and installed the new one.

1) Removed machine front by removing four (4) screws. 2) Removed rear access panel. 3) Replaced antiquated motor controller with upgade revision; basically unplug and plug 4) replaced motor and 5) closed up unit. Whole job took about an hour with half the time spent moving the unit to work oo.

First ya have to find the problem that takes time.
Pulled the front off via the four screws, two on the door and two on the opp side. Removed the two top hold down brackets that hold the top on (on the front), popped out the four screws for the detergent and the top hinged up, The hose was right there. Removed the two hose clamps, found the crack ordered if from you guys.(very fast) slapped it in and put a load in.

Remove the ten screws to the inner door to remove it. There are components in the inner door that we didn't think would be there. Take out the components on the inside of the inner door. The areas where the ten screws go in have the small metal plates that we needed to be transferred to the new inner door. Otherwise the screws will not fit. It flips out. That's the part that took us a while to figure out but it came out easily. The other parts snaps on and off after the two screws are removed.

Just remember what you removed and where it should go. It takes two people to do the work.

Had to remove the tub. Tha bearings had to be removed from the drum. After installing the new bearings(which are available @ O'rReilly's) the seal was't bad

got instructions off internet from others who did same repair; after taking inner basket out, used drift to remove outer bearing; seal was difficult to remove but used drift to force innner bearing into seal and seal popped out. had help reinstalling inner basket into outer basket.

We took the washer completely apart. Replaced the bearings, pulley and
belt. We decided to replace anything that involved the spinning cycle while we had it all apart.
It was well worth the time and effort we put into it. It works like a chime
and is very quiet . Silence is golden ! Hopefully it will work another 18 years.

I was able to open up the top lid on the washer to gain access to the water inlet valve. I changed it out and now water doesn't continue to fill up the washer when it isn't being used. Problem solved. Great video on how to gain access to the water inlet valve.

Removed door, removed top from front clips, removed front, removed screws holding water distribution box, lifted top, removed valve, replaced valve. Reversed procedure to reassemble.

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.