MAH14PRAWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Basic disassembly as described earlier.Some tips I found helpfull. Use vice grip pliers on spring.it will keep a grip on the spring hook and you can exert more force to pull the spring.Th bellows was very sticky and hard to slip into place. I put a litle silicone lube ( stuff you use for pool pump gaskets )on the bellows. It made it slip into place easly.

Despite the reviews by people who installed this part themselves, I knew that any type of repair was beyond my ability. I enlisted the assistance of a cousin who is a trained, professional appliance repairman. Despite not having instructions, with his experience things went well until he found he did not have the unique wrench that would have made life easier, but he was able to adapt and use the tools he had at hand. Unfortunatley, after more than twos hours attempting to install the wire around the boot, he realized that he could not do it alone, I had to help him and together, we were able to install the wire. It would have been helpful to have step by step instructions and a list of necessary (or at least useful) tools.

Download machine service manual from internet. This makes dismantling easy and prevents damage to component parts.

Dismantle as per manual and remove old bellow - easy.

Re-install new bellow on tub rim - EXTREMELY difficult. The spring that tensions the wire that holds the bellow in place is extremely powerful and in attempting to stretch it it often slips off the tub rim taking the bellow with it so you have to start all over again. It took me 2 hours to realise I would never be able to do this alone. With the help of a second pair of hands this was accomplished in 20 mins with some difficulty.
The rest of the installation and re-assembly was done without difficulty.

Off with the door. Off with the front panel. Lift the top and you are looking at the boot. Remove the boot retaining wire . Remove the boot and reverse the procedure. It's a snap.

Wow! Thanks to the customer info/hints already posted the repair went super smooth and was relatively easy to accomplish. $70.00 for an easily replaced part sure beats $1,000+ for a new washer. Super fast shipping reduced down-time significantly!!! From start to finish the job took less than 30 minutes. Thank you so much.

Tilt washer onto door with back of washer on top for easier access.

Removed the door and front panel with ease. Then came the spring and cable. People who say it was easy are not telling the whole story. Removing the spring was okay except for it flew across the room. Putting the new cable on with a pair of needlenose pliers did not work for me. I had to get a spring tool like you use on brakes on a car. Once I had the tool and secured the cable in place with a piece of wire I got the spring on. Everything except the spring took about 15 minutes.

after getting the washer apart and notice that the inner andd outer bearing were bad, I had to beat out the bearing because they were rusted in. after getting the bearings out the washer went together quite easily. It runs like new again.

Being a seventy five year old man I was reluctant to taking on this job but after getting prices for the repair or replacing the machine I cringed and trying to save some money I took on this job.Got all the information I could find on line I got started.Taking machine apart was easy and remembering to keep parts separated is something I learned from my mechanical back round is a must.Pictures also help.Taking out spinner drum easy.Bearings a nightmare If you don't have a bearing removal tool.Front bearing had to be cut out with a dremel tool and zip wheel being careful not to destroy the race.Removed spindel from spinner drum as I could see that for me to put shaft in hole would have been a problem.Put new improved seal in.Easy part.Reassembled. Springs and clips hard.Washing again and quiet.Wife happy four days later.Old guy sore.All done with outer tub in machine.Estimated savings Big,Big,Big.Getting big steak dinner and big kiss.

The whole thing is on YouTube beating out bearings was the only difficult part

Removed front panels, lifted top to open position, removed back cover, removed drive belt, drum pulley, removed rear bearing snap ring, removed seal clips, removed 3 baffels then the 3 mount bolts. Pulled out spinner support and the inner drum. Removed the rear bearing #6206LL with brass drift rod and heavy hammer (came out with little effort. The front bearing #6207LL I soaked with penatrating oil overnight (this bearing was making all the noise as after 11 years water finally got to it) The next morning I had little trouble removing it with the brass rod and hammer, taking my time to work my way around driving it out. After cleaning everything up, assembly was the reverse, carefully driving in the new bearings. The new lip seal was the most difficult getting started without going in crooked. Time spent was a good 8 hours (it would have been more if the outer drum was removed) and the cost of everything was $167.09. Thanks to Part Select, the spinner support assy came the very next day. The two bearings came from Bearing Supply & Depot Inc. The washer operates like new!! Very Quiet!!

Thanks to Partselect's accurate parts' lists, and installation video, along with others' posted installation trials, gained confidence to attack problem on my own (coupled with repair (or should I say, "replace")men's advise to trash machine). Bearings had basically disintegrated, causing inner tube to be out-of-alignment, and rub against outer tube. Would just like to add to what others' contributed, that I found Plumber's Tub Drain tool to work very well at knocking-out larger front bearing (was perfect fit to ID of bearing). Had to Dremel cut out rear bearing, but quite accessible from rear of machine. Otherwise, alot of cleaning from 13yrs. of useage. Thanks for everyone's assistance!

I had pretty much the same experience as others. Difficult parts were 1) removing the inner tub, I used the blunt side of an axe with a 4x4 after several hammers would budge it. 2) removing the old bearing, like others I had to cut them out using a Dremmel with a steel cutting disk from Home Depot ($15) Wear eye protection as sparks are flying! Cut out the inner race and the bearing fell out, then cut V notches in the outer race, trying not to cut into the bearing seats on the tub although I did have a couple small cuts, then hammered it out from opposite side. Installed the new beaings and metal sleave between (what is the sleave for?). I tapped both bearing up against the seat shoulder but with the sleave in between there's not enough room and the new bearings turned real hard as the sleave is binding them. (Minor panic). A couple taps with hammer and chisel on the inner bearing from opposite side to push it out created enough room and the bearings turned real easy. Suggestion; plug the drain opening in the bottom of the outer tub with a towel or sponge to prevent pieces of the old bearing from falling in there. I saw one ball roll down in drain, so I tipped the machine on its side and several balls washed out plus pieces of the old bearing. I had a towel laying over the top but that wasn't enough, needs to be stuffed down in the opening. Re-assembly was easy and the machine runs perfect. The wife is very impressed. Total investment approx $85 (kit, bearings and cutting disk) plus about 8-10 hours vs $800 repair or new machine.

Accessing the bearing housing was quite easy and the PartSelect videos were quite informative. Upon removing the lip seal the bearings obviously needed to be replaced. The bearings needed to be purchased from a local supplier and we used Grainger #6L028 (rear bearing) and #6L029 (front bearing). We needed to apply a generous amount of Liquid Wrench and used a long drive punch pin and a 3-jaw pilot bearing puller to remove the bearings. After removing the rear bearing we broked the puller on the front bearing, but were able to remove with the punch pin with the access created at the rear of the drum. Reinstalling the bearings was text book, we used a long bolt with large washers to pull the front and rear bearings together, with the spacer inserted between them.

1. ReMoved spring and cable from tub, 2. Remove bellow drain hose clamp at bottom of bellow, 3. Remove bellow from tub side and door frame, 4. Wet door frame with water and dish soap solution, 5. Press door frame side of bellow into slot. Align grooves, 6. slide tub side of bellow over tub edge, 7. Say a prayer to the good of your choice, 8. Reattach bellow cable with spring. This required use of double stands of 60lb braided fishing line to chinch most of the way and then use of a spring hook took in one hand and needle nose in the other. No less than 12 attempts. Be sure to have another pair of hands ready when doing and the whole job will take about 15 to 20 minutes.