LGR3330ADZ Admiral Range - Instructions

Removing the old oven bottom was easy...as it was already outside of its slots. Installing the new one was pretty easy. I placed the oven bottom in the front slots first...then the rear slots...no tools necessary.

It's happened before and the igniter has always been the problem. This time, however, the mounting holes were slightly off and had to be drilled out. The connector didn't mate up and so both had to be cut off, the wire stripped back and wire nuts used to make the connection. In the end, it all worked out. I guess since its kind of old, you can't stock every component for every oven. Oven works perfectly now.

I expected to see a thermocouple and a heating element next to the gas valve but after reviewing other PartSelect stories from people with a similar problem I realized that the heating element also serves as the switch. Apparently as the heating element is energized by the oven control it draws more amps. The gas valve is allowed to open at a specific level corresponding to a sufficiently glowing heating element. I ordered a new heating element. The part received was made up of two pieces. The heating element and the metal mounting bracket. The element was identical but assumingly due to the age of my stove the bracket was slightly different. Fortunatly I was able to slide the new element into the old bracket. The only other obsticle was that the new element came with a two conductor connector and the old was installed with ceramic wire nuts. The connector was cut off and the ceramic wire nuts were reused. Its working fine.

I removed the oven racks, the bottom of the stove and a v-shaped cover that was over the heating element. The old gas ignitor screwed off easily after I put W-D 40 on the nuts. I un ooked the old gas igniter and replaced it with the new one. The oven lit immediately after I replaced everything. I am very proud of my self, I feel like a femal Bob Villa. I almost bought a new range. Boy am I happy!

Put the back of stove on blocks of wood to get high enough to screw the new leg in.

It was a very easy repair. I just connected the two wires to the bottom of the electrode and set the burner on stove top and turned it to the right to lock in place. Turned burner knob on and burner worked great.

Ordered the broiler igniter that matched my model from part select and installed. Easy and part works as it should. Only took a few days to get here and saved me $40 by not purchasing at a local parts store as well. Will use part select if there are any future needs.

one screw holds the cover to the connector. one screw for the burner tube to the oven frame. two screws hold the ignitor bracket/assembly to the burner tube. that's it. take four screws off and disconnect. connect and put four screws back on.

Simple... unscrew the 2 screws and unplug the electrical connection to uninstall and just the opposite to install.

1. Slowly pull the stove from wall. 2. Unplug 120 volts plug from outlet. 3.Turned off the gas outlet. 4. Open the stove door, remove the racks, then unscrew (2) screws that hold the short oven sensor in place. 5. Slowly pull sensor out of it's housing. Remove the clip that holds the sensor. Install new sensor using the clip. Push sensor back through the hole opening. Screw the (2) screws into the mount to secure the sensor. 6. Plug the 120 volt plug into the wall outlet. Turn on the gas outlet. Test stove by turning on oven. It works like a new stove. Wife is happy, and Thanks Giving Dinner is on! Reverse your steps to secure your stove. A total of 25 minutes after cleaning the dust under stove. Thanks for everything. By the way, Thanks Giving Dinner was delicious.

Removed the drawer from under the stove then unscrewed the access panel in the back (two phillips head screws). Rather than take it off altogether I just swung it to one side.

The ignitor electrical connector required two hands to disconnect and it was a bit of a reach but came apart easily enough once I got hold of it.

Removed the racks and bottom from the oven. the bottom is held in by two pins in the back that you just slide toward the front then lift it out. I did not bother to remove the oven door, but some people might.

Then removed the two hex head screws holding the ignitor on and pulled the connector out of the hole leading to the bottom.

Installation is the reverse of removal The electrical connector was reluctant to back down the hole, but went with a little wiggling and pulling from underneath. Once you get it back down there the connector is keyed, so you can't get it wrong.

Piece of cake, really.

Total repair time: about 30 minutes, including the mandatory halfway beer break.

Removed oven door by opening slightly and lifting straight up. Pulled out racks and removed bottom of oven. Unscrewed wingnut and removed burner shield. Removed 2 screws that hold igniter and unplugged the connection. Reverse the procedure to put it all back together.
Be patient, it takes a few moments for it to begin heating when you first turn it on.
So easy a woman can do it ! I know,(I am one).

First I did was to google the problem I have. There several video how to solve the problem. It show me different ways to solve my problem. I just follow the instructions. Thank to google without it, I am lost. I may add, that google is a big saver for me.

Remove rear sheet metal cover. Disconnect the temp sensor wiring connector (on the left side as viewed from front).

Open oven, take out the 2 screws attaching sensor and remove. Reverse for installation.

Included wiring adapters are not needed for this model oven.

took out burner and remove ignite r and reinstall a new one simple as that