LFEF3011LBD Frigidaire Range - Instructions
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The glass on the enter oven door was broken
It went very well. Very quick. Just took out a couple of screws, took out the rest of the broken glass, slipped the new piece in and screwed it all back together. This was the first time I had ever tried to fix any part of a range/oven before, it was very simple...
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leslie from Pickerington, OH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
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Burning electrical smell and "buzzing"
I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.
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Louis from Beloit, WI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
5 of 7 people
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element burnt out
purchased a square bit and removed screws easily and disconnected it from the wiring and pushed in the new element secured screw and it was back to baking.
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Demoris from GOLDSBORO, NC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
5 of 7 people
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crummy chrome drip pans were worn out. replaced wtih enamel ones.
I just pulled the old ones out of the sockets, cleaned underneath, and replaced with new ones. No-brainer.
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Katherine H. from SEAL BEACH, CA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
4 of 4 people
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The oven bake element developed a hot spot which failed shortly after the hot spot developed.
Unplug the stove or disconnect at the breaker. Open the oven and remove the bake racks. Using a nut driver (or Phillips Screwdriver) remove the screws (one per side) that secure the bake element. Place them in a safe/secure place outside of the oven. Carefully pull straight back on the element until about 3 inches of the wire, that connects to the element, is exposed. Carefully unplug the wire from each element (make sure that the wire does not pull back into the oven insulation. I placed a small metal clip on each wire). Remove the old element and plug the new one in. Put everything back in the exact same way you took the old one out. Power the oven up and preheat your oven. Monitor this - should be no problem at all. Very simple process. My first attempt at this and it was very easy.
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Dave from BRISTOL, VA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
4 of 4 people
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The oven and broiler element would not heat.
The elements tested good. Figured it was the electronic clock timer/control using the sites repair guidance and ordered the part. The remove and replace was very easy. Pulled the stove out, removed back panel and removal and replacement of the part is pretty basic. Be sure and unplug the appliance first. Everything works fine now.
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donald from SACRAMENTO, CA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
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Burners getting too hot.
Watch video. This oven had the connecters that popped off and on which made this task easy.
Parts Used:
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Leslie from CONCORD, NC
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
4 of 4 people
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Both heating elements stopped heating at the same time
Discovered that that oven control panel was to blame for both heating elements to stop working at the same time. Went online and ordered the part which was delivered in 2 days. Installation very basic and included the following: 1)Pulled out stove and un-plugged stove 2)Removed top rear panel 3) Removed 4 screws of the damaged control panel (leaving all wires plugged in) 4)Installed new control panel and connected wires one by one to make sure done correctly 5) Replaced rear panel plugged in stove testing oven.
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Chad from Murfreesboro, TN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
5 of 7 people
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I damaged surface element left kettle on without water in it
The repair was really easy. All I did was unplug the surface element and plug in the new one.
Parts Used:
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Kenneth from LANOKA HARBOR, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
4 of 4 people
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Bottom burner wouldn’t heat
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cynthia from SEBRING, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
5 of 8 people
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replacing oven racks
The replacement racks were spot on and the service was outstanding. had the racks in 2 days. Happy Happy Joy Joy! :)
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Lawrence from Elmira, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
4 of 5 people
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oven baking element burnt into
my husband did the repair.He unplugged the stove removed the element and installed the new element.plugged the stove in and checked operation of element.Stove works great
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Teresa from Marengo, OH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Socket set
4 of 5 people
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Old racks had melted plastic on them.
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James from PAINESVILLE, OH
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
4 of 5 people
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Oven would not heat
Removed four srews from bak of the oven so I could get to the timer. Then I unplugged the oven swapped out the wires put everything back together. Plug it back in and started the oven. Work great. Also you must remove the timer faceplate carefully or you will peel off the white.
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Joe from Spanishfork, UT
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 5 people
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Bake elemen t shorted out.
Turned off power to stove;removed baking racks , loosened Holden screws to pushon bake element removed old bake element,installed new pushon bake element.
Parts Used:
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LARRY from LEES SUMMIT, MO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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