LFC20760SW LG Refrigerator - Instructions

Ordered the Part after looking at the choices shown, once I inspected the unit. I then knew by looks what would fit. THEN (important) went on Utube asking for video instructions. They had it on the computer and it was just too easy. What took the longest was the removable of the frozen food items and the drawers in the Bottom Freezer section.
Perfect product, perfect instructions, perfect job and worked perfectly!

Fridge only 18 months old too!

Handyman wanted $457.00 to do the job! HA.

Have had the Sears repairman come to the house to replace this part in 5 minutes for +$100.. twice. When my dad's stopped working, ordered the part and replaced it myself for the cost of the part and shipping.
Use a screw driver to pry the right side of the switch and pull out. Best to watch a youtube video first. Takes about 5 minutes.

Switched the refrigerator circuit breaker to off. Put tape around the switch to prevent scratches. Wedged the putty knife into the right side of the switch and pried up.the switch and connector popped out. Removed the connector from the old switch and connected it to the socket in the new switch. Stuffed the new switch and connector back into its home. Switched on the circuit breaker. Now we have light in the refrigerator with every opening!

Unplugged the refrigerator. Used small flat head screw driver to push the front tab of the old switch in and pulled it out with pliers. Detached and reattached the wires to the switch. Reinserted back into hole. Plugged refrigerator back in to power. All good.

Unplugged the refrigerator, Taped around the edges of switch as I had read to prevent possible scratches, used very thin flathead screwdriver to pry out old switch, unplugged old switch, plugged in new switch, put it back in opening, plugged fridge back in, and I had beautiful light! Hardest part was unplugging the refrigerator!

The old switch was a little hard to get out....took me a couple tries. I couldn’t move the frig out to unplug it, so just shut the power off in the kitchen. But, I was happy that’s what the problem was and so happy to have the light back on......it was probably three years it didn’t work!

I ordered and replaced the ice maker. To replace:

1. Go behind refrigerator and unplug electrical cord and turn off water supply.

2. In freezer locate electrical plug for ice maker. It has two tabs on the left and right side of it. Lift the tabs and pull the plug to disconnect it.

3. Remove the three screws, 2 on top and 1 on bottom of ice maker You can actually leave the screws in place if you loosen them sufficiently and lift the ice maker off of the screws and washers.

4. Install the new ice maker using the screws and plastic washers to secure it.

5. Plug the electrical connector for ice maker into the receptacle. Note: The plug only goes one way and is keyed with different shaped plugs and holes. The wires on my plug naturally fell upside down so I had to turn the plug 180 degrees to make it fit in the slot.

6. Turn on water and check for leaks.

7. Plug back in refrigerator and you should have ice in less than 12 hours.

This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water dispenser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.

Pulled fridge away from wall, unplug electrical connection, open fridge door, use knife to prize out door switch, pull off and replace switch from electrical wiring.

The part you sent snapped right in but the glass top of mine was a bit too big...it's on anyway with a little overlap But the paper inside package said it was a SUBSTITUTE PART.

pried out old switch, disconnected wires ,placed wires on new switch

1st, emptied top freezer basket, used drill to remove 3 mounting screws, held new rail guide in place, installed same screws into freezer wall. Hand tightened with hand screwdriver to avoid over torquing with drill.

Used a screwdriver to take off broken clip and then used same screwdriver to replace with new clip. Very easy.

I removed the old water valve, disconnected the water tube going in and tube going out to the back of the refrigerator. New water valve bracket different than the previous one which resulted in my having to modify it to fit. Not an easy task as it was preformed metal. Once hooked up, water turned on, and ice maker turned on, the sound I'm getting now is clunking and not making ice. My debate is whether or not to purchase a new ice maker or revert to the tried and true method with ice trays which work every time.

Plug in the replacement ice maker to the socket in the frig, fit the back of the new ice maker into the slot to the rear, attach with 2 screws saved from removing old ice maker. Simple.