LDR3822PQ1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

all that was required was to push the catch into the slot notools needed.

First unplug unit to avoid shock. Using a flap blade screwdriver lift the front corners of the top. Unplug the switch located on the right side in the front. Remove two screws holding the switch in place. Remove old switch and reverse to install new switch. Entire project took less than 10 minutes. Oh yes the wife was so happy she made me a dish of fudge brownies. :)

I remove the lint trap and the two screws that held the top down. Next to unscrew the two screws that holds the door switch. I prized the top up with a screwdriver . I unplugged the door switch and plugged in the new one. I inserted the switch into the door and replace the screws. I snapped the top back into place and replace the screws in the lint trap. I close the door and turn the dryer on and it worked. I followed the directions you provided on line. They were very easy to follow.

First and foremost turn power off to dryer at main box. Next remove screws say lint filter, then gently pry right and left front corners up with putty knife. Raise top and secure. Disconnect switch wire by using flathead sliding in between connection. Next remove 2 screws under front opening to dislodge switch. Repeat process in reverse order...takes 30 min. tops...

Jimmied out the latch using two screw drivers to get under the edges. Pushed the new piece in. Voila! Took 2 minutes for what my repair man told me would cost about $200 to fix. Unbelievable!!( I first watched some YouTube videos to get the idea )

Hi, I am a working mom, and my dryer quit just after it had been behaving strangely. At first, it kept spinning after the door was opened. It eventually stopped working, and I assumed that the door switch must be the culprit. I purchased the part from the catalogue, and watched the installation video. Repair: After unplugging the dryer and removing the lint screen, I used a philips head screwdriver to loosen and remove the two screws located at the lint trap. I then inserted a flat screwdriver into the area between the top of the dryer casing and the face. Per the video, at approx. 2 inches in from the left and right side. I did this while gently applying pressure from the back of the dryer top to the front. This loosens the clips allowing the top to be lifted back and out of the way. I then opened the dryer door and commenced loosening and removing the two screws that hold the dryer switch in place. I used my screwdriver to gently separate the wiring harness connection, as it also has a clip to keep the connection tight. With these items free, I simply popped the little black thingy back through the hole (The black thingy just keeps the slack in the wiring from sagging, I think). With the old part removed, I then installed the new part accordingly. I reversed my way back out of the process respectively. I plugged her back in, and turned her on. Back in business.

Well turned off power by unplugging it. Took a Phillips screwdriver and took the 2 screws out from vent and then took a flat head and left up each side to access the inside of dryer. Then used screwdriver to take out screws to switch and then disconnect the power cord to that. Reverse the procedure and it was so simple. Ty. Awesome company.

replaced internal dryer filter housing

Unplug electrical
remove 2 screws from lent screen handle
remove lent screen
using putty knife, insert about 2" from each side at the front of the dryer just below the top cover to release 2 keepers.
pull up on cabinet top and lean top backwards out of the way.
remove 2 screws holding the switch located at the top right inside of the dryer door.
pinch the plastic keeper while pushing down to release wiring assembly from dryer cabinet
using a small blade screwdriver, disconnect wiring connection
discard old assembly
reverse all steps to replace with new door switch

I follow the instructions from the video you guys show the only issue is putting back the tensioner in place but my brother leaves next door and help me.

Turn off Gas, unplug electric cord, remove rear cover, remove two screws holding the lint trap to the top, raise top flip[ping to the back supporting it not to damage wiring, remove bottom front cover, remove door springs, remove front cover, disengage belt tensioner, remove drum. unclip right side roller and remove, unbolt left wheel mount from the rear and the bracket in the front, remove clips or cut off (new ones come with new clips). clean the wheel shafts, light sanding if needed, apply light coat of lithium grease. replace wheels and reassemble dryer in the reverse order from disassemble. roll drum by hand after front back on to ensure it rolls without catching. Finish and test.

just like the guy in the video. It was easy to folow his instructions, and the best thing of all i could stop the video if I had a question and then resume!

The numbers on the metal plates were the JC Penney numbers - that no one recognizes. I eventually found the model number inside the timer case on a printed schematic. I started by disassembling whatever metal covers were removable by finding sheet metal screws and unscrewing them. If you pull on the sheet metal covers, you can find where they are connected to the frame. Eventually, I found that both the heating element was broken and the thermostat was fried. It took a while looking at various websites to find the proper parts. It's all OK now.

I watched a U Tube video about banging sound from dryer. Once I recognized the problem, lifted the top, removed 2 screws holding the front, removed the drum, and bingo. Saw the worn out drum roller. Ordered the replacement parts from "PartSelect" on line (Great Company). Was in no hurry, so I chose regular mail delivery. 4 days later, got the correct replacement parts, put the dryer back together, and now, the dryer is quieter then when I bought it new, a thousand years ago. I will never again be afraid to tackle an appliance issue. THANK YOU !!!

1. Popped off hinged dryer lid at front and supported to allow access to lint chute
2. Removed back sheet metal panel
3. Removed dryer chute to expose sensor; removed same-deformed terminal on top needs to be straightened with pliers to remove through slot.
4. Installed new sensor; terminal needs to be twisted to ensure solid installation and good ground. Bottom pops in but took a bit of finagling.

Accessing and replacing the sensor was straightforward enough; bulk of the job was cleaning off old gasket material (severely degraded) in two locations. Used plastic scraper and razor blade scraper, then cleaned sticky with goo gone. Installed new gasket strip from Home Depot; available in rolls. I used 1/4" x 3/8". Surprising how much lint/hair/debris was in bottom of lint chute. Glad to get it all clean.