LAT7300AGX Maytag Washer - Instructions

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

Simple removal of the mounting plate holding the old valve to the rear of the machine followed by disconnection of the water hose to the washer from the valve and unplugging of four electrical connections. Reattached the new valve to the water hose and then reattached the new valve to the mounting plate, finally reconnecting the wiring connections (4). Installation completed by reattaching the valve mounting plate to the washer. The diagnosis was confirmed by blowing into the old valve's water inlet. Air would pass through the valve, confirming that it did leak when the valve was closed. Air blown through the new valve prior to installation would not pass through the new valve.

Part shipping was great got here in two days-

I pulled off Front panel (two screws) and lifted Top panel (2 screws) and disconnected the inlet hoses. I removed the old Inlet valve. (1 scew and valve to tub hose connection).

Before Installing the new valve, i shifted the connector positions on the selenoids to match the old valve. and installed by reversing the steps. All went very smooth. Thanks, It was easy.

I removed the two screws that held the front panel in place. Then I removed the two screws that held the top down. This allowed me to see the siphon valve when I lifted the top up. I disconnected the hose from the pump to the siphon valve by taking off the 2 clamps. Then I went to the back of the washer and moved the drain hose from the back by looseneing the clamp. Then I unscrewed the 4 screws holding the siphon valve in from the back. I took off the old valve put the new valve in and reversed the process to reinstall. It fixed the problem.

Followed web instructions.

1. Removed hoses 2. Removed inlet valve. 3. Took valve apart to discover defect in diaphram. 4. Looked up and ordered part. 5. Replaced inlet valve. 6. Tested washer.

I followed steps outlined on you web page.

I first shut off the cold and hot water hoses so that no water would run while replacing the part. After that I made sure to unplug the washer .Then I removed the plate that was holding the water inlet valve with a 1/2 " nut driver ,I think there were four bolts .Then I removed two more bolts from the center of the plate that were holding the water inlet valve.I then disconnected one 1/4 " screw or I should say loosened one which held the main water hose going into the washer which then released the part ,except from four wires. I then took one wire off at a time and attached to the new part one at a time.Finally, I was finished and reconnected everything .It worked perfected !I'am very happy and pleased . This washer is over 25 years old and still runs .

I removed 2 screws at the bottom front corner of the washer. Then lifted the front panel upwards about 45 degrees, which allows the front panel to be removed.
I then removed one small lag bolt from under each front corner (with a nut driver), which hold the top to the frame.
I was now able to swing the top up to have access to the siphon break.
I then removed the drain hose from the rear of the machine where it is attached to the nipple end of the siphon break, by loosening the hose clamp. Still at the rear, the nipple end of the siphon break is attached with 4 mini lag bolts, Which go through the back plate & hold the siphon break to the inside of the washer. I removed the bolts with a nut driver.
The nipple end now fell away. You must save it, as the siphon break does not come with a new nipple end.from the siphon break. Maytag attaches it with an iron band, as they must think that this repair will never be done! I cut the band with the Dremel, being very careful not to cut the hose.
I pulled the siphon break free from the hose.
The installation is a reversal of the removal, starting with inserting the siphon break in the inner hose, clamping the hose with the supplied hose clamp.
I the removed the inner drain hose

Removed old valve and replaced with new. Wire for wire..screw for screw..

I checked the inlet hoses for hard water build up and noted that this was not a problem. Then checked the hose from the inlet valve to the washer drum and determined that it was clear so I knew the problem was a faulty inlet valve. After receiving my replacement valve, I removed the old valve by removing the hot and cold water hoses and unscrewing two screws securing the inlet valve and lifting the inlet valve out the metal holding bracket. This gave me complete access to the inlet valve allowing me to remove the hose clamp and hose to the washing machine drum. The new inlet valve was an exact match so I removed the four electrical wires one by one while putting them back on the new inlet valve to insure correct electrical connections. I added a piece of one half inch plastic tubing provided with the new inlet valve on the outlet nipple of the new inlet valve to prevent leaking. I then put the new inlet valve back into the holding bracket and screwed it down. I replaced the hot and cold hoses to the new inlet valve carefully so as not to cross thread the plastic connection on the new inlet valve. After turning the water back on, I checked for leaks and plugged the washing machine back on to test it with a washing cycle.

Followed instructions, those were OK.
Dishwasher front still leaking

Diagnosed the problem and ordered the part online in about 15 minutes. Part arrived about 3 days later. I followed the directions that came with the part and VOILA! washing amchine fixed. I unplugged the washing machine. I unscrewed the the screws at the back of the machine. Pulled out the faulty part and disconnected the electrical wires. Connected the electrical wires to the new part, and screwed it back in. In less than 30 minutes, I was done.

First, I opened up the back of the machine to see the way the water got into the tub. I turned off the water at the pipes, unplugged the machine, and disconnected the hoses from back. There were no leaks with the hoses, so I looked at the part that managed the water flow when operating and went on line to find the part.
I found it and then ordered it from partselect.com. I got it two days later. I looked at how the other part was connected to the hoses and reused a clamp. I recommend getting a new hose clamp to make fitting it faster. I felt great after I got it to work, so that we didn't have to buy a new washer (the part was only $26). I think that Repair should be added to Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle.

Took out 2 5/16" screws and loosened top and took off two ground wires and 2 hot wires for cold & hot water solenoids and removed & replaced solenoid wires and fill hose. Also Had fantastic delivery of parts.

Shut off water supply, unplugged washer power, removed supply hoses from old washer valve assembly, removed valve mounting plate and removed old valve assembly from mounting plate, diagrammed and disconnected hot and cold solenoid valve wiring and removed valve assembly outlet hose. Installed and connected new valve, performing the preceding steps in reverse order. pressurized new valve, verified valve function and checked for leaks and placed washer back in service.