LAT4000AAW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Took a look at the new door switch assembly, used a socket wrench to remove the old, took wires off of old and attached them to the corresponding terminal on the new. attached the new assembly inside the top panel. Works!

The valve was leaking. I shut off the water to the machine and unplugged the power supply. I removed the defective valve. I then installed the new replacement valve reconnecting the 3 hoses and the 4 wires to the selenoid. I plugged it in and tried it before I pushed the machine back in place. I had to retighten one of the hose connections due to leaking. The leak stopped and I then pushed the machine back in place.

It saved me some $500.00, the cost of a new machine.

When selecting a cold cycle, the inlet valve would allow for slow water flow resulting in 15+ minute tank fill times.

I unplugged the washer, disconnected all water sources.

I removed the 3 screws holding the water inlet value and cover. Disconnected all cabling and water tubing. Replaced valve, reconnected all cabling and reinstalled.

While I was doing the repair on the inlet value. I replaced the hose washer and also installed a screen kit at the home water valve. The home is supported by a well and at times sees sedimentation in the water which could have sparked the initial issue to begin with.

I did clean the old water inlet valve once before which fixed the problem temporarily. It was time to replace the entire part.

This corrected the issue.

Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .

Lets just say thank god for part select!!!! # 1 By far. This was a one two three job.

I turned the dial to other selections and nothing worked, no power. I checked the fuse box, but nothing was off, and then I checked to make sure electricity was working with a light bulb. I googled the situation and came across this site and read other posts as they sounded exactly like what I was experiencing. I ordered the complete lid assembly not just the fuse. The item arrived quickly in two days. After about an hour, as it was pretty easy to replace, the washer was working again! Thank you all for posting, as it saved me at least a couple hundred dollars.

Found noise to be belt slapping the base sheet metal, from being too loose. Belt was loose because the drive pulley was worn and one side of pulley was loose! Used allen wrench to loosen the pulley set screw, and pryed off the old pulley. Replace d with new pulley and new belts. Works and sounds like new!

The instructional video clearly told me how to remove access panels. I was able to observe the leak during operation, and determined it was coming from the siphon break and running down the internal drain hose. The video clearly showed me how to access the part and replace it. This saved me a $300 service call for sure. Thank-you for your excellent guidance. We're going for 30 years of operation from this appliance!

After turning the water off and unplugging the machine, I took the front panel off the washing machine. I then slipped the belt off the pump sprocket. The pump was right in the front and easy to remove. All I needed was a screwdriver, for the hose clamps, and a 5/16" socket to remove the old pump. I then installed the new pump, with the existing screws, re-attached the 2 hoses, slipped the belt back on, and popped the front panel back into place. The new pump works great and the leak is gone. The whole job onlt took about 30 minutes.

The repair man shouldnt have opened his big mouth. He told me exactly what the problem was over the phone, but said he couldnt get to it for a few days. 20 minutes later I found the part and overnighted it to my house. Removed the back panel with a few screws. Couldnt have been easier.

The hardest part was actually finding the right part. It was easy to take of the control panel. make sure you unplug and plug in the correct wires....

I thought that would be it, but after doing that you need to fine adjust the whole assembly so that the timers and automatic switches work well.

That's about it.

Cleaned the cavities. Lubed them with olive oil. Inserted one ball on left side, while holding tension against that side to hold the ball in the lid and top indentations. Applied olive oil to right hand side indentation, and placed the new ball into lid indentation. Put lid down into closure cavity with ball, and with lid vertical, began pushing it rearward so as toslightly spring metal lid rolled edge and top metal away from one another UNTIL the new ball snapped into the hinge indentation in the machine cover. Done.

My husband took the old water inlet valve off, and put the new one on, and it works great. Very easy to replace.

First closed hot & cold water faucets feeding the two washer water hoses, then turned the machine on fill momentarily to bleed off water pressure in hoses, and unplugged power cord. Used pliers to help break seal on brass hose ends, removed old hoses. Removed 1/4 & 5/16 sheet metal screws, replaced leaky valves. New assembly was EATON Made in USA, high quality. Replaced rusted outlet hose spring clamp with "IDEAL" stainless screw clamp. Replaced unit in machine, installed new hoses, runs fine.

Removed top. Removed agitator and tubs . Replaced seals and reassembled.