LAT2300AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

I looked at the machine diagram on the website and removed the screw on the bottom and lifted up the from panel which allowed me to have easier access to the fill injector. Then I removed the back panel off of the control panel on the top of the machine and removed the screw that held the fill injector in place, attached the new fill injector using the hose clamp I ordered with the part ( you need a new hose clamp because the other one is useless after you remove the old injector). Tightend up the screw to hold the injector in place and replaced the back panel and front panel. It was an easy repair and only cost $28.00 with shipping. I easily saved $150.

took front panel off had 2 screws, propped up washer in front, took belts off with hands and put new ones on in reverse order One belt was badly cracked. I am 77 year old female, if I can do it, anybody can. great service on getting belts too. Thank you

Pull washer out from wall. Remove front panel (2 Philips head screws), swing bottom of panel out, remove panel. Tilt washer backwards, lean against wall to expose area under washer. Roll off old belts, roll on new belts. Move washer back upright, replace front panel, replace the philips screws, move washer back to original position.

Partselect.com gave me a very helpful list of parts per symptom. Said that there is an 88% chance that belts were my problem. Since the machine is 200 miles away I ordered two other parts as well. Belts fixed it! Took front cover off (not totally necessary). When the machine is tilted back belts are exposed underneath. Two belts later I was up and running. This site is really great.

Replaced both the drive belt and pump belt in less than 10 minutes. Maytag has the easiest machines to work on.

Installed drive and pump belt.. very very simple. only tool required was a screw drive to remove front panel of the washing machine.

Took the back plate off, popped the old lid switch out and the new one in. Very easy. No problems, saved $100 buck at least doing it myself.

Had to look up how to pop the front panel off the washing machine - that was the hardest part. Once that was off, the top unbolted and the cover came off the back of the control panel with a few screws. Tilting the washer-top back, I was able to clip the new upper and lower injector (attached to each other in advance) to the washing machine. Then I realized that I needed to clamp the water line to the injector FIRST - so I found a small screw clamp and attached the water line. One screw and one plastic tab hold the injector in place. Everything went back together fine and worked great! Maytag washer keeps on truckin for another ten years!

To troubleshoot the problem I removed a panel/blank from the back of the machine. I then started to fill the tub while watching the pump. It immediately leaked from the shaft seal. I ordered the part early the next morning. It arrived late the next day. I was able to remove the front panel of the machine by removing a screw at each front corner of the bottom of the machine. The pump was attached with three screws which were simple to remove. The pump was an exact replacement and fit identically to the original. I tensioned the belt, and tested the machine. Before reinstalling the front cover, I cleaned the interior of the machine a bit and replaced a couple of hose clamps whose steel screws had started to corrode. All in all a simple repair.

This job turned out to be alot easier than I thought thanks to the tips I received on the web site. First I removed the agitator with a small nut drive I believe it was 1/4". Than I removed the two screws holding on the lid and lofted it out of the way. This is where the Hammer drill comes in. I had read someone else had used WD40 to help break free the threads and get the retaining ring off the tub it self. I worked on this for about 20 minutes with lube and trying to tap it off with the hammer and tap method. Finally I looked over and sitting there on the self next to the washer was my hammer drill. It can't be any worse than banging on the thing with the hammer. (They proably don't reccomend) but with a straight tip and a couple of quick shots the gaint nut came right off. I will say that my washer being older I could barely even tell where the threads were so I figured why not. It worked great. I then took the tub ring(plastic) at the top off and removed tub. Again a couple of quick shots with the hammer drill and the ring came right off. I did spend a little time making sure everything was clean and then reassembled machine with no more leaks. It may sound strange but it worked great with no fighting the space constraints, the calcium buildup and no damage to machine. If it doesn't work get a bigger hammer. Good luck

1. Disconnected washer from power outlet.
2. Slid washer out from wall to allow access to rear.
3. Isolated water supply and removed both hot and cold water supply hoses from solenoid valve assembly.
4. Removed one screw holding angled metal bracket with water solenoid valves attached.
5. Rotated bracket to get it to clear back of washer and expose wiring and fill hose.
6. Removed hose clamp on fill hose with pliers and then removed hose from valve assembly..
7. Removed wires from each solenoid.
8. Removed one screw that attaches solenoid valve assembly to angled metal bracket.
9. Slid valve assembly to allow it to be released from angled metal bracket.
10. Reversed procedure to install new valve assembly.

I tipped the washer up on 2by4 blocks used 1/4 inch rachet with 5/16 socket two remove 3 screws and the belt from underneath. Took clamps off hoses yahoo saved l00 bucks!

I removed the front of the washer (two screws) and found the drain hose to be cracked near the top where it attached to the drum. A hardware store hose was inadequate because it crimped when bent in an S shape as required, so I ordered the proper part amd installed with two new clamps.
I bought a 5/15 socket driver to do up the clamps, and all is fine.

Found main drive belt had a big chunk out of it. Both belts were worn and "gummy". Replaced both belts with belt kit 12112425; no tools needed -- belts are replaced from the bottom. Just tip the washer back to the wall, and there are the belts.. Installation time 5 minutes.

Watched youtube presentation so that I knew what to do.