KUIA18PNLS4 KitchenAid Ice Maker - Instructions

I undid the bottom screws off the bottom front of the ice machine under the door... Knowing the water valve was at the front it made it super easy to get to and I didn't have to pull the machine out from under the counter etc. Turned off the water supply at the wall, disconnected that line at the valve, removed the line from the valve to the water reservoir. Unscrewed two screws that held it to the machine wall and put the new valve in, reconnected both lines and voila! Done! Running like its never run before. I filled up that reservoir for weeks by hand many times a day so the satisfaction is huge to have saved a fortune by fixing it myself! And I'm female which makes it even more satisfying. A monkey could put this part in. Anything a man can fix, I can fix too! Ha!

This causes more than one problem. When the system does not get enough water it makes thin ice. When the ice is thin it does not have the mass to slide down on to the cutting grid and stops about half way down. When the pump starts running again, the water hits the ice sheet that did not make it to the grid and water goes all over the place thus emptying the reservoir then it makes no ice. Water was entering very slowly into the reservoir with very little pressure. Changed the water valve and now pressure is higher and fills the reservoir completely enough to flush the reservoir as it is supposed to do. Works great and makes plenty of ice now. Just take the front bottom cover off by the 4 screws holding it on and look to the left and you will see the water valve. Get the vacuum cleaner and clean the condenser coils while you have it open.

Since no ice was forming on the evaporator plate, I first checked to see if I was getting water. Water to reservoir was fine, but it was not moving from the reservoir. Pretty logical that something was wrong with the pump. I pulled pump out. It was locked up, with a significant amount of calcium buildup. Replaced it and all works fine. Great ice again.

Removed old assembly by disconnecting 2 wiring harness connections and loosening 2 screws with nutdriver. Installed new assembly using same process. Had ice in about an hour. Very easy.

It was easy to remove the old grid and replace it with a new one.

Technically, the repair did not require specialized knowledge. However, replacement of the motor required some effort. Because the motor is located at the bottom of the unit in an area with copper tubing & wiring hindering access it was physically difficult to remove and then replace the motor. A problem arose because the shaft on the replacement motor was larger than the original motor's. Thus the fan would not fit on the new motor. Luckily, I found a fan locally that fit the motor. It would be very helpful if a fan was included in the motor kit. The ref. is now running smoothly

didn't go well at first. Got it all hooked up relatively easily but it didn't work. Called customer service who suggested hooking pump up to other power source to be sure it worked. It still didn't work. After closer inspection a connection wasn't hooked up on pump. After connecting got it back in about 30 min. Working like a charm now.

Follow the instructions already submitted by others. As mentioned be sure to place towel inside to cover the drain. My 3-wire electrical connector also had some corrosion build-up so I had to remove the bracket holding the connecter cut the 3-wires and install a new connector. Not a big deal, you are just working in a small enclosed area. Pulling the entire unit out and either elevating or tilting back helps with the access. Be sure to check drain connection in the back of the unit when putting back in place. Having a headband light helps for entire repair.

We guessed what the problem was and we were extremely fortunate that we guessed correctly. The part was not technically difficult to install just a little awkward to get to. My husband had no trouble although he did take the machine out of it's space and lay it flat on the floor. One benefit of this process was being able to clean some of the areas that are almost impossible to get to when the motor is in place. It was well worth the extra shipping charge to get it before the weekend.

Wires in cutter grid were broken and wouldn't freeze/cut ice. Replaced with the new ice cutter grid that came completely assembled. Put it in with a screwdriver in less than 10 minutes. Ice cubes ready in 45 minutes. Repair guy told me it would be $455 for him to repair it. With shipping, mine was $133 and 10 minutes of my time. Well worth doing it myself.

Checked Overload Start Relay With Volt Ohm Meter&Replaced Them Easy And Simple Repair

Took out one strap support with a nut driver, unplugged the device and plugged in the new one. Reinstalled the support strap. Job complete.

I removed the two screws that hold the shield in front of the grid and put them aside allowing access to the grid. I then removed the two screws that hold the grid in place. I unplugged the connector and then pulled it out. I reversed the process to reassemble and powered up the unit. I now have ice again. This whole process probably took me 15-20 minutes to do the install.

I determined it was the cutter grid because there was a broken wire on the existing one. They have to heat up and cut the ice. I ordered it and the part was at my house in 1 day. The cutter grid part was easy to install. The ice maker is working great now.

I determined the pump was not working by running the ice maker. After it started a cycle, I could fell the underside of the cold plate to insure it was indeed cold, but no water was flowing.
First, be sure the water pump electrical plug is in., it releases by pressing together the tabs at the ends, not sides.
To replace the pump, turn off the water supply and cover the drain hole at the bottom of the ice bin so you don’t drop parts down it. The screw-plug at the bottom of the water tank or a quarter will do.
Remove the water tank below the pump by taking out the thumbscrews at both ends. You can then see the hose at the bottom of the pump. If it is off, that may be the problem.
To remove the pump, pull the fill hose to the left out of the slot and bend it behind the pump to get it out of the way. Unplug the electrical connector and the pump hose. There are three ¼” hex head screws, teo on the side wall, one in back. The middle one is the hardest to access. I used both a nut driver and a socket wrench with a 4” extension.
When installing the new pump, be sure to plug in the electrical connector, the discharge hose at the bottom and position the fill tube as you found it. Forget any of these and nothing works. Re-install the water tank, replace the drain plug and turn on the water supply, in that order.