KSCS25FTMS02 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

removed old bracket and replaced with new one - two screws and it was done - simple

Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.

Remove ice drip tray to expose two phillips screws.
Remove screws
Pull out slightly and push up to detach at top. Move carefully to the right and expose electrics. Disconnect white connector carefully pushing on tab . Disconnect two pads black connectors in similar manner.
Remove ice maker panel. Remove pads from back by carefully pushing on tabs use a small flat head srew driver to push gently down and up and away from panel. Remove wire from white tape . Install the new pads by the reverse of removal. Carefully make sure wires are not pinched in electric unit on water side. Reconnect small black connectors and white power connector. Reinstall panel and insert screws. Replace ice drip tray. Viola complete

The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.

Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/heater. Replace with new. Reassemble.

I found a repair guide online to check the resistance of the motor, thermostat, and heater mold. The resistance of the motor and heater mold were both a little off from their recommendations. I had an assumption that it was the motor but I decided to just buy the whole assembly basically for spare parts and I didn't feel like messing around with it any more. The new icemaker was not just a drop in replacement as part select told me because the Icemaker Bearing and Cup Assembly was larger than the original one. Thus, I had to switch it with the old one really quick so instead of a 3 min job it was 20 or so.....

I removed the cap from the filter pushed a lever and removed fliter. I replaced the old filter, removed the caps on the new one and slid it into channel after replacing the outer cap. I removed water from the spigot for 4 mins. and it was ready to go. I pushed the reset button to get the green light to come on.

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

I removed the two screws holding the cover door, then the three on the uder side of the icemaker assembly. I carefully worked the old unit out; it was a tight fit. The most difficult step involved disconnecting the power assembly. Due to the space, it was hard to get hold of each side of the clip to pull it out. After the old unit was out, just reversed the steps and had the first batch of ice in less than an hour. (I washed the new unit with warm water and soup as it had grease/lubricant on it when taken out of the package).

r&r fan blade and motor. with the parts you supplied it was easy. the parts were perrrrfect. thank you very much. job well done. bruce

Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .

Just put the new one in.

I found an EXCELLENT video (see link below) that shows with great detail how to change out several parts in the water/ice dispenser area on the freezer door for KitchenAid or Whirlpool brand, side by side units. This made my repair so easy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yK8ZnbQQ8qU

The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

Removed the two screws that hold flaping door. Removed the single screw that covers the connecting wires. Disconnected the wiring plug. I wiggled out the ice maker. Took off the motor cover. Swapped out one motor for the other. Reinstalled the icemaker in the resverse order of removal. Note the wiring plug in the freeze is very from. It makine s the reconnection differcult.