KHWV01RSS0 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions

Plastic door hook was broken in half and door lock (DL) error code was showing-- though the hook was still in the door (each half held in by its own screw) and the door actually felt as if it was still latching o.k. After reading some things online, I though it was worth buying new hook since it was cheap, and giving it a try. Got it for a total of about $11.00 a little over 48 hours after placing order. It took about a minute to put it in. Then, tried to start the washer and "Voila"-- same error code still appeared! Read some more stuff online and saw a recommendation for "restting" this error by unplugging and replugging the pink wire harnesses at the back left of the top of the machine, after taking off the top (held on by just 3 screws at the back edge). So I did this (after first unplugging power cord), and this time "Voila", it worked! So I assume the error code was initially caused by the broken plastic hook, but the code stayed in the system (even though I had also tried unplugging the power earlier)- and then was cleared off when I did wired harness unplug/replug operation. So the situation was a little puzzling, but still an "easy fix" overall.

Disconnect the hot and cold water supply hoses from the rear of the machine. Remove 3 screws in the rear that fasten the top cover. Slide the cover rearward and remove it. Disconnect the black outlet hose and unsnap the two electrical connectors from the water valve. Remove one screw that fastens the water valve to the rear panel. Slide the water valve away from the screw and remove it. Reverse this procedure to install the new valve.

Of course the machine was not plugged in & water valves where off. I took water hoses off. Then i took 3 screws off the back of lid & slid lid back & lifted it off. I then unplugged two wires going to valve. I then took water hose going to valve off. Last there is one bolt holding valve to machine & in the mechanic industry we call this bolt a star head, so it was a good thing I had this tool. So if you do this repair you will have to get this tool. This job is easy to do & Part Select was 100% on my order & shipping! I will order again when something brakes again !!! Thank's

I unscrewed the three small sheet-metal screws holding the washer top to the frame and slid the top aft and laid it on the floor. Then I took fine sandpaper and cleaned the plug contacts from the various components connected to the main control board. After five years or so I have found that most copper connectors will corrode and prevent electricity from flowing properly. That did not correct the problem. I checked the flow control device and it appeared clear and not binding. Then I pulled the drain pump filter and it was clear. I could hear the water pump running and the water flowing out the normal rubber hose. But the washer would stop three or four times during a wash cycle. Pressing 'RESET" and "START" would start the washer again. At the end of the cycle my wife noticed there was water in the washer tub. It had to come in via the water control valve. This is the valve you screw the hot and cold water hose into. It is a ice blue color and held in by one screw. I unscrewed the two hoses and removed the one screw. Then I had to slip the black supply hose from the valve leading to the flow meter. I disconnected the four electrical connectors and installed the new valve and found the screw hole did not align with the screw hole in the washer frame. I used a eighth-inch metal drill and drilled a new hole which lengthened the slot that the mounting screw normally went through. After I re-connected the hot and cold water lines to the valve I turned the water back on and put the top back on the washer. The washer worked like new. No stops. I did notice before changing the valve the water would flow into the washer tub like beer coming from a tap. After installing the new valve the water flowed in at three times the rate like a garden hose.

Greatest difficulty was positioning machine to get at rear. Disconnected inlet hoses. Removed rear 3 screws to remove cabinet top. Removed rear holding screw to inlet valve. Removed two electrical connections to inlet valve. Disconnected inlet valve from interior hose. Reversed process to install new inlet valve.

The repair was easy. It took 15-20 min to replace the valve at the most. Three screws on the back and the top comes off. The valve is right there on top. Undid water hoses and then one screw and one clamp to remove the valve. So simple and problem resolved. I also took this opportunity to replace the water hoses (they were over 7 years old) since I had to take them off anyway.

Old belt and new belt were not exactly the same. did research and deturminded that the new belt was correct. Reomoved the back panel and rolled the old belt off. Pully is designed to allow changing of the belt without taking the pully off. Put new belt on the motor pully ensuring it was in the groves. started belt on the drum pully and turned it untill it was tight. With an open hand I held the belt on the drum pully so it would not slip off and gave the drum a quick turn to jump the belt onto the pully. rotated the system several turns to make sure everything tracked correctly. Replaced the back panel.

My son pulled the washer out and found the parts that was leaking. He ordered the parts from your company. they arrived the next day and he re-pared the leaks and all is well.thank you

Followed video clip that I found online

Slid the washer out, took the hoses off and the back panel then the front panel, found coins in the filter tray and a baby bottle plastic cap was sealinhg the drain going into the plastic filter housing (it fits perfectly) removed all the items and put the white plastic screw cap back on the drain. Next problem was the washer walking around the laundry room, upon fixing the drain problem noticed the front shock absorber was unhooked and two on the right side of the machine had leak some grease, rehook the front shock and ordered two new ones it don't walk around anymore and works smooth and quiet now. I also have to add that Parts Select has been absolutely GREAT had the parts, delivered when promised.

The drum baffle came off. This website provided a diagram to make ordering the part easy. It was reasonbly priced and came in the mail very fast. I had it installed in my washer within 5 minutes. Excellent experience. Thank you.

The new piece just took seconds to install. You had to set the piece slightly farther back then where it belongs, and with a slight downward pressure, just slide the part toward yourself until you hear it click into place. About 5 seconds and no tools required.

Unplugged electric cord and turned off water supply. Remove 3 screws @ rear of washer and removed top panel. Removed clamps on hoses and electrical connector to flow meter, removed and replaced with new flow meter. Replaced the top panel, turned on water supply and plugged unit in. Finished in less than 15 minutes. Saved myself several hundred $

Very simple repair. Lined up the baffle tabs with the drum slots. Pushed the tabs into the slots, pulled the drum baffle towards the opening of the wahser until it seated. You will hear aclick.

Easy peezy!! Next day delivery, as promised for parts that could not be found anywhere else. I placed the baffles in the washer and clicked them in using both hands one by one. I'm petite and weigh about 110 lbs. The total installation time was less than 2 mins. I was given a $200 quote just for installation but, spent less than $100 and installed myself. Thank you!! I will not wait so long and shop around next time. I'm going straight to partsect.com to save time and money. Although I have to buy new clothes now since my washer put holes in all my clothes. But, the problem is finally solved and I am so grateful.