KFXS25RYWH0 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Took the old one off put the new part on. Took 1/2 hour

Put new one on matching the sctew feet and design of the grill

When you open the box, have flat place prepared so you can lay the seal down to allow it time to relax. Only handle the seal by the corners. Lay it flat. I used a hair dryer to remove the creases during its time in the box. Keep the hair dryer moving, don't rush this step, take your time and allow the seal to relax on its own. Once it's completely relaxed. Remove the old seal by starting at the corners. No tools needed just keep working around the entire seal. Inspect the seal chanel and clean as needed. Pick up the new seal by the corners and press in place with your fingers, starting at the corners. I found doing the top first then the sides, leaving the bottom to last worked for me. Hope this helps.

Checked Video online. Had to remove the 2 snap on track/gear covers. Pry out the gear with screwdriver and the gear bearing unit. Align the flat side of the bearing unit and snap in. Position the cut teeth on the gear to match original and snap into the bearing. Insert the connecting rod into the long shaft gear and then push back into the short shaft gear. The video said to remove the drawer front but I did not and don't see that it necessary.

Customer service provided a video of the ice maker removal and installation. I watched the video and performed the remove and replacement.
Simple task.
Shout out to the customer service person, OUTSTANDING SERVICE. I apologize for not getting her name, great job.

Replaced the solenoid that feeds the icemaker. Easy fix remove the trays on the right and remove rear panels on the inside of the refrigerator. Pop the inlet solenoid replace it. Be sure to shut power and water OFF.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Removed the shelf below the cover to allow plenty of room to work spread apart the old cover at the pivot point toward the back installed the new one in reverse order

The installation video for condenser fan motor helped a lot to know how to disconnect the old fan motor and connect the new one. So easy just know how to remove and put back the fan gently, observe carefully where is the center and the connector position; 15 min after everything was done and the unit works well to date.

replaced condensation tube with upgrade thawed freezer compartment so outlet hole was free of ice. that means pulling back compartment open to verify the hole is indeed free of ice. the ice maker on the other hand was freezing up solid, replaced solenoid config. as recommended by the tech. still same scenario. turned freezer temp up as far as it would go past recommended temp, which is 4 above zero F. still same results water cup that feeds the tray freezes solid then water runs all over a freezes until you cant get the tray out to work on it. moral to that story it didn't work.

Unsnapped and pulled off small cover exsposing two phillips head screws. I removed larger cover and styrofoam insert fully exsposing the damper unit. i unplugged same and with a 1/2 inch wood chisel was able to release the "snaps" holding the old unit in place. Simply reverse procedure to install new unit.

I received the wrong part - had to pay returnin shipped and restock fee. Lost out on dealing with this company. Went to Whirlpool site and got correct light for my refrigerator

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!

I took the cover off, and noticed the tabs holding the timer wheel were broken off on one side. after removing the wheel, I noticed the shaft from the ice lifters was broken. Since the only way I could repair it was to buy the entire module, which I did. I received my part in 3 days. When it came, I began removing the old module by taking out the three screws holding it. After replacing the module which took about 10 minutes, my machine was making ice within about an hour. My ice holder was full in 3 days. Albert Moran, Milton, Fl