KFXS25RYBL4 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Popped out the old light switch with a butter knife from the bottom first, disconnected the plug in. Install was just the reverse. Super easy fix

Popped out broken switch with blunt flat edged instrument. Disconnected switch from unit . Plugged new piece in and reinserted into side panel of refrigerator. Very easy.

Really easy, simple instructions, and it was on my doorstep 3 days after I ordered. Much simpler than dealing with the appliance store, where I'd have to drive to the store, order the filter, wait 7-10 days, and return to pick it up. Ughh! Internet is the way to go!

I followed the video provided by Part Select. I also let the refrigerator stay unplugged overnight with all the doors open. This p-trap kit has fixed the leaks out of the front of the refrigerator. There is no ice build-up in the freezer. Perfect!

Pulled the unit out after reminding myself how to do so on the internet.

Replaced bad assembly with new. Not for the average person, some basic mechanical know-how needed.

unscrewed old filter, screwed in new....good to go!

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Put new one on matching the sctew feet and design of the grill

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Watched you tube video,.....followed,....went very well.....picked the right wiring harness,.....no problems.......making ice in 1 hour

Removed the shelf below the cover to allow plenty of room to work spread apart the old cover at the pivot point toward the back installed the new one in reverse order

Followed the instructions in the video provided via email from Partselect
However, the part received was the opposite design of the part removed.
It appeared this could be left hand right hand choice of part. Moreover, the button on the switch that turns the light off/on when door is open/closed was not functional due to the part being the opposite of the part I was replacing. I tested the switch I was replacing and it appears this is not the problem. I think the light socket is the problem. I am 69 year old female and capable of doing small repairs, but limited knowledge of electrical so having to troubleshoot by trial and error. Thank you.

replaced condensation tube with upgrade thawed freezer compartment so outlet hole was free of ice. that means pulling back compartment open to verify the hole is indeed free of ice. the ice maker on the other hand was freezing up solid, replaced solenoid config. as recommended by the tech. still same scenario. turned freezer temp up as far as it would go past recommended temp, which is 4 above zero F. still same results water cup that feeds the tray freezes solid then water runs all over a freezes until you cant get the tray out to work on it. moral to that story it didn't work.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?