KFIL27CXMS5 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Shut off water supply. filter is located in the upper right hand corner of the refrigerator on the inside. open the drop-down door. by hand pull the filter downward. then twist it to the left one quarter turn. it should pull out. I replaced it with a filter bypass plug. you can purchase a high quality filter to replace.it don't buy cheap filter.I made that mistake! hope this helps good luck!

Googled how to replace door gaskets and watched a video and did what it said and was so easy. took longer to remove everything and the shelves and storage bins and wash down the refrigerator than replace the door gaskets.

Turn off the water to the unit. Disconnect the plug on wiring from the old valve.
They always recommend you disconnect the electric (unplug) the unit while doing this work.
Disconnect the water lines from the old valve by pushing the water line slightly into the flange on the valve, it releases the line from the flange.
Hold the flange rim against the valve seat and pull, you may have to jiggle the water line a little while pulling to remove it.
Push the water lines into the ports on the new valve, turn on the water and check for leaks.
If no leaks, plug the wire connections onto the new valve, reconnect it to the unit and turn the power back on.

Changed the ice and Water filter, works great...

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!

Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.

Popped out broken switch with blunt flat edged instrument. Disconnected switch from unit . Plugged new piece in and reinserted into side panel of refrigerator. Very easy.

Really easy, simple instructions, and it was on my doorstep 3 days after I ordered. Much simpler than dealing with the appliance store, where I'd have to drive to the store, order the filter, wait 7-10 days, and return to pick it up. Ughh! Internet is the way to go!

Simply remove the small screw frome the bottom of the bucket, slide the coupling onto the screw shaft, and retighten the screw.

I followed the video provided by Part Select. I also let the refrigerator stay unplugged overnight with all the doors open. This p-trap kit has fixed the leaks out of the front of the refrigerator. There is no ice build-up in the freezer. Perfect!

The only real difficultly I had replacing the ice door was getting the exterior trim off the freezer door. You have to push down on the bottom of the trim to release the tabs that hold it in place. After removal of the trim, the rest of the repair is pretty straight forward.
The ice door kit solved the problem!

unscrewed old filter, screwed in new....good to go!

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.