KERA205PBL4 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

Take off the back panel of stove and unplugged timer motor and switch on door latch assembly,removed two screws that hold assembly and slide rod off. I put 110 volt plug to timer motor and it did not move, that is how I diagnosed problem. Ordered new assembly (cannot buy just timer motor)put new door latch assembly on and worked fine. Of course unplug stove before you start !

Removed rear panel and removed switch. I placed wires from old switch to the new one. re installed switch an back panel.

unplugged the range, removed the cooktop left & right front screws, unplugged left & right plug & unscrewed ground wire. Parts arrived fast & reassembled. . Happy, Happy, Happy! Happy Wife...Happy Life!

Repair took 10 minutes time. Used Phillips screw driver and pulled terminal block off stove. Pulled wires off with socket set. Replaced terminal block and reattached wires and block to back of stove. I had called sears to order part and lady tried to sell me a 135 dollar part even though I advised her it was a terminal block. WOW I'm glad I know what I needed. That's when I went with parts select. Easy ordering delivered within five days.

Easy as pie! Thank you for the illustration to help us pick out the correct part.

This was very straight forward. Once the sheet metal shroud on the back side was removed just had to undo the one remaining wire, remove the block, and reassemble. Only question I had was which wires went where. The Wiring Block was melted due to the short and the wires were no longer attached. Did a quick google for a typical oven three-wire install and that did the trick.

changing the part itself was easy, but the sheet metal covering the whole back of the oven was difficult to remove because of some screws that were stripped. The new sensor solved the problem.

The malfunction was narrowed down to the oven door motor lock, located at the upper left back of the unit. Removed two panels from the back of the unit, 8 screws. Then the motor, 2 screws, 4 wire connectors. Reversed the procedure for the installation, and solved the problem. About 30=35 minutes for the job. If your handy at all, it should not be a problem.

EASY!! Repairs saved $300.00 on serviceman fees they will rip you off for this simple repare

take the 2 screws that hold the handle on out...watch the glass front and the side trims because the handle holds them on. Take the glass out then remove the side trims. Replace the side trims holding the glass in place with 2 pieces of masking tape om each side then install the handle with the 2 screws and remove the masking tape.

Removed back of stove, 8 screws, removed original latch assembly and installed new assembly. One thing that can cause you difficulty is that the rod that connects the assembly to the front latch on the door can disconnect and has to be reconnected.[Problem]

tested found the membrane switch was defective.unpluged the stove,removed back panel . removed the electronic controler then replaced the membrane switch.reinstaled all components.pluged in and tested. Work grad!!!!!!!!

I determined the problem by swapping the 8 inch burner with a 6 inch burner. the 8 inch got hot when connected to the 6 inch wire harness. This told me that the 8 inch burner was good. The 6 inch failed to get hot so I determined the next logical thing was the power to the 8 inch burner. I used a multi meter to determine that power was getting into the control unit but no voltage was getting out. The controller was bad. I ordered a new controller and after unplugging the stove, replaced the controller in about 10 minutes. (Critical part of repair is to unplug unit from wall -220 volts!)

Easy change! Two screws in front and grounding strap screw-lifted out and turned stove top upside down on table. three more screws for burner element and then reinstall with first two screws and grounding strap screw.