KEBC107KSS03 KitchenAid Wall Oven - Instructions

Removed the door from the oven. Undid all the parts above the inner glass door. Installed the inner glass and reassembled the door. Reinstalled oven door.

I pinpointed the location of the sound, took off the protective plate, felt it vibrating against the plate. I disconnected the power supply, and looked at the wirings and how it was connected, saw some burning residue surrounding the area of the Transformer. Then figured that I could simply replace this. I wrote down the Model and Serial number of the Stove, searched online, found this site. Located the part on the diagram, then simply ordered it. My part arrived in 3 days, and had the part replaced the next day. Couldn't be a smoother fix. Thanks.

After reading all the other entries, I decided that I could do this! My first hurdle was getting the oven door off the hinges. Mine were not like any of the others described. My son-in-law looked at them and couldn't figure them out. So, I found the original installation instructions and, lo and behold, they said to flip the lever (one finger operation) in each of the rectangular holes holding the door onto the oven and then lift up until the door comes off. I did it, and it did! Boy, is it heavy! From there I just followed everyone else's instruction about undoing the screws, washing the glass panels, lining up the screw holes to get it back together, etc. One thing that took me longer was that the steel panel needs to go back the way it came out, not flipped! When I washed the glass panel it held, I put it down wrong and then "installed" it backwards. Luckily, I have a double oven and looked at the other one to see what was holding up the re-assembly! I'm glad that one of the others mentioned that the glass on the "bottom", the one that broke, isn't held in my screws or steel plates -- nothing, so I wasn't surprised when I got to it and it was "floating" on the insulation. My white insulation was like a fine fiberglass and was easy to stuff back in around the rim of the new glass. Took me a little over one hour. So, no more wet rags on hot glass (you'd think after living 72 years that I would remember this!) The glass fit perfectly and my husband would have been proud of me -- that I tackled a job that he usually handled, and that I saved over $200 for a couple of hours of labor and travel time.

This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.

First, I watched the YouTube video which showed how to replace the hinges. Then I ordered the hinges which came in two days. Using nothing more than the instructions I watched and a Phillips screwdriver, lI removed the door, set it on the counter on a towel, removed four screws, and then removed the old hinges. The new hinges fit perfectly and were held in place with two screws each. Then the door was reapplied to the oven. The oven door now operated as if it were new. I wish I had attempted the repair much sooner, as we could have avoided the difficulty with opening and closing the door.

Pulled the stove out, unscrewed the back and plugged the new thermostat in. Screwed the back back on

Opened overn door and inserted allen wrenchs through the holes in the door hinges. Close the door until it makes contact with the allen wrenchs, then grasp the oven door handle and the bottom of the oven door and lift up to remove the door. Place the door on a flat surface,(I used a bed) and remove the screws to gain access to the glass. Upon re-assesbly, leave door flat line up and re-install all screws before putting the front pannel back on. Insert door back into the oven and open, remove the allen wrenches and close the door. The process is easy and will take 30 minutes to an hour and save you a $100.00 service call!

Since there is multiple glass panels with several brackets, screws and insulation within the oven door I strongly suggest to take photos at each step using your smart phone. Do not attempt to remove all the components at once. Bracket positions, screw locations and glass orientation is necessary. This is the best advice I have to make this a quick and very easy job.

First we watched a YouTube on how to replace the thermostat. It was easy to turn off the circuit breaker. It was a little tricky to pull the range away from the wall and then we were able to unplug. Because our range is a dual fuel model, the back had a lot more screws to remove to get to the thermostat because there were covers over a lot of wires and the gas line I presume. However, we did get off the 12 or so screws with a regular screw driver. We easily located the thermostat and quickly realized that the two screws holding the thermostat in place were neither flat head nor phillips. We were able to remove one of them and merely twisted it sideways, installed the new thermostat with one screw and attached the wires. When we flipped the circuit breaker and plugged in the over, Voila, it worked. The hardest part was getting all the covers off the back. I hope it doesn't happen again because this was an expensive replacement part.

unscrewed the oven door, took off the entire door, pulled apart the glass pieces and replaced

Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.

Taking off the glass lense for the light bulb was harder than I thought. It unscrews counterclockwise, but it was very hard to get off. It would not turn. I ended up using connector pliers I use for work, that has rubber jaws. The lense unscrewed very easy with it. Light also unscrews out. PartSelect.com is the only way to go to buy parts for appliances. It is simple, even has the illustrated parts catalog. And it saves a lot of time and gas, driving around looking for the part!!. PartSelect came through again.

After we put the latch pins in, the door was easily lifted off. We placed the door on the table and unscrewed the trim pieces. The new trim pieces went into place after we cleaned the door. We slipped the door back on the oven and removed the hinge pins.

ordered new broiler pan

I follow the directions on the Maytag site. It is a very simple job. I appreciate the Information I got from Becky when ordering the hinges.