KDTE104DSS0 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Unplug the dishwasher,take the screws out of the coutertop,then slide dishwasher out turn it on its side. Then take a torx screwdriver and remove 2 mounting screws. Unplug the wires going into the motor and replace the motor with the new one. But you need to replace the grommet the motor shaft slides up into or it will still leak.

Put thread tape on threads. Screwed water hose to part. Pushed hose onto part. Pushed electric clip to part. Screwed part onto washer. Done

Followed a video, pretty straightforward. Be sure to clean all the area. My husband used cotton swabs to clean all the gunk.

The only appliance that wasn't SS was my $900 dishwasher that was tiled-in when my kitchen floors were done...I can only replace it by removing the granite counter. I ordered the SS front and handle to update the look of the 4 year old DW and it was a really good idea. * screws later and it was done. The 'repair' took 15-20 minutes and the results are amazing. BTW...the parts took less than 2 business days to arrive...

Remove two screws at top that fasten dishwasher to cabinet. Slide dishwasher out to expose the two links that attach the door to the springs. Fit the new links to the springs and door.

I watched the instructional videos that showed how to replace the inlet fill hose/water inlet a couple of times. The repair was exactly as shown. No trouble at all.

I replaced both upper rack tracks because the spot welds on one of the factory tracks failed after 18 months. The welds just rusted away and let go. The other track appeared to be close to failure so I replaced both of them. This repair is actually quite easy, but in order to change the tracks, you must pull the appliance out at least a little more than halfway in order to reach the screws that hold the tracks in place. There are four such screws on each side -- they are fastened through the exterior face of the tub. Here is the process:
Use a 1/4" nut driver to remove the bottom front (kick) plate from the appliance. There are two screws, one at each end. There should also be two screws fastening the dishwasher to the countertop. You'll need to open the dishwasher door to see these and remove them. At the bottom of the dishwasher again, you might need to screw the front (2) leveling feet in to lower the dishwasher and provide clearance. Once done, just (gently, slowly) pull the appliance out of the cabinet. Check to make sure your power wiring, drain hose, and water supply hose are all long enough to do this. If necessary, disconnect any of these that are too short. if your power wiring is short, as mine was, you'll need to disconnect the circuit breaker, then remove the junction box at the lower front right side of the dishwasher, then disconnect the power and ground wires.
Once out of the cabinet, use a 5/16" nut driver to remove the four screws holding each rack slide in place and remove the track. The rubber mounts will come out with the track (new tracks include new rubber mounts). Clean any residue from the track mounting area inside the tub before installing the new track. This whole replacement process should take a total of 3-4 minutes per side.
To finish up, just reverse the process. When sliding the dishwasher back into place, make sure the fiberglass insulation stays in place completely around the outside of the tub.
Because the tile on my kitchen floor does not continue under the dishwasher (tile was installed after the cabinets), it was absolutely necessary to turn in the leveling feet to get the appliance out. Since this also makes it very difficult to get a wrench around the plastic feet, I used a very small socket (3/16"?) on the top of the leveling feet stems. This makes it really easy to turn the feet.
I the appliance designers had engineered things better by fastening the tracks from inside the tub, this would be a 5-minute job. But it's still not bad at all.

I purchased this misguided by the official response to "Doug" on April 17, 2018, which at the time was labeled as "most helpful". This is NOT the little grommet in the center. This is a big grommet that goes no the supply pump. This is #14 in the diagram. (#15 is actually the clamp that holds it). If you are looking for the little grommet that goes on that stem on the central recirculation pump, that part is not available, it only comes fused on the sump, and for replacing the sump you have to disassemble the whole bottom part of the dishwasher, pumps, sensors, valves, hose...even this big grommet. A lot of work, and since you are at it, you might want to replace both grommets. If you need THIS big grommet (#14) only, then it is not so much work, just take out one clamp, one connected cable, and the grommet to replace. But check if your machine has reusable clamps, because if not, you might want to order a new clamp. Good luck!

Removed old gasket, cleaned track and replaced gasket-also quit using Cascade pellets and went back to using Cascade powder with a numerical "rating" of 6. The pellets of even 10 caused the washer to leak, obviously too much foam would not float the float to actuate the pump.

Ordered the "right" part according to the diagram. The part I received was about 1/4" too long so I couldn't use the whole manifold. Took the rubber end off and - fortunately- it fit the old manifold. Dishwasher works fine now. Wish I could have ordered just the rubber valves.

This kit comes with the link cords and the balance wheels. I only needed the cords. I undid the set screws under the counter edge and slid the Dishwasher out from under the counter. One of the links had a broken cord and the spring had snapped to the very back of the space and was a bit hard to find. I used the good side as a guide to see how to thread the cord correctly. I did not replace the wheels since they appeared to be in good shape and looked like they might be a bit more difficult to replace than just the cord. For a second I thought I had ordered the wrong part because the new cord's attachment point at the hinge did not look exactly like the originals but the new design worked just like the original. I did need one other person to help stretch the spring and hold the door in the best position so I could attach the cord to the hinge. It's working perfectly now and I saved the wheels in case I need them later.

Just snapped it right into place! No tools required. Very easy!

I removed the old gasket. Cleaned the surface under the old gasket and began pressing the new gasket into place. Make sure the gasket is pressed all the way in to properly seat it in the groove. Didn't use the tube of gasket sealer and it worked perfectly no leak,

I watched the video and this was the easiest repair ever. Took longer to disconnect and reinstall than it did to change out the pump. Highly recommended watching the video

change out the old pump with new one actually quieter running pump awesome