KBUDT4270A02 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Ordered the parts from Parts Select and had them within two days (lightning fast shipment--and with just standard shipping). Disconnected the power to refrigerator, removed three screws from each cover panel, pulled the panels loose from the freezer wall, disconnected the wiring harness on each, removed the screws holding the two boards, replaced the boards with the new ones, attached boards to cover panel with screw, reconnected wiring harnesses, replaced the three screws on each side, restored power, and made ice! Whole job took about 15 minutes.

Light was blinking on the Electronic Control Boards. Ordered replacement (emitter and receiver)and installed, and now it's working.
Some note: 1 year ago, the board started to blinks (meaning it's bad) but it was still making ice. This gave me a false error when it really failed, took the risk and ordered the replacement parts and all is well now.

One more thing to pay attention to , and it may only be on my model of refrigerator, but the wires harness that connect to the receiver board (big board) have large and stiff wire. With limited space where the board and the wire are seat at, it put lots of pressure on the pressure on the board's connector. This pressure, over time, will cause the right angle connector's solders to crack and may be a contributor to the failure. If you're installing the new board, try to re-inforce the connector with some rubber heat glue and also relieve pressure from the connector's end, which I hope will prolong your board.

hardest part was getting up the nerve to pull front cover because it is plastic afraid i would brake it pull from bottom and lift up one screw holds old door inplace uplug electric new door doesn't have electric that it.

Pry open the front dispenser outer cover. Remove a screw holding ice door dispenser unit, remove old door chute, remove and place coil kind of stuff (connecting to panel) old chute to new one and reinstall.

worked great parts were perfect!

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

Repairing a refrigerator is inimidating to say the least. Our ice maker has broke twice in the two years that we have owned it. The first time we had a service repair faciliting come out and they replaced it for about $200. The second time I had no idea what the problem was until I came to this repair forum. I soon realized that the electronic control boards needed to be replaced. Received the part two days after ordering and it took all of about 5 minutes to unscrew the old boards, pop them out, and put in the new ones.

Love your website and the money that you saved me!!! Thanks a million!

I wasn't sure what the problem was, but the ice maker seemed simple and on-line resources suggested the control and motor assemblty was at fault. I searched the internet and Partsource had great diagrams which I could match to the part in hand. The price was right (way less than the local stores) so I ordered it.
I unplugged the unit from the power in the freezer, but unplugging the entire refrigerator works too. I pried off the white cover on the front of the ice maker, which snaps in place top and bottom. There are three screws holding the contoller (the entire front piece), remove them, pull off the controller and push the new one in place. You may have to turn the blade shaft to line up the notch on the shaft to the motor. Then reinstall the three screws, The screws go into plastic so it is easy to cross thread them, so be careful, I actually think I did with no ill effects. Snap on the cover and repower the unit. Done. Simple and quick.

power off, 3 phillips head screws on either side of freezer. unplg each board, plug new ones in completely. ( cannot mix them up, size difference) replace screws and enjoy ice cold beverages once again!!!!!!!!!

First, I removed the two screws that hold the metal grille on the bottom front of the refrigerator, under the doors. I removed the grille panel. The drip pan rests on two tracks directly under the coils. There is a small spring clip that needs to be pushed upward to allow the drip pan to slide forward. I removed the old drip pan, and slid the new one all the way into place.
I then replaced the bottom front grille using the screws on each end.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

Refrigerator compressor making a clicking noise and not starting, problem was a compressor relay. I just had to remove the backing off of the fridge with a screwdrive and the compressor relay just plugs into the side of the compressor.

Unscrewed clamp holding water tube to refrigerator ice maker. Pulled water tube from ice maker and water valve inlet. Cut the new tubing to the exact same length and inserted one end to the water valve inlet and the other end to the ice maker then screwed clamp holding water tube back to the refrigerator ice maker.

The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.

Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/heater. Replace with new. Reassemble.

Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.