KBSD702MSS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

I popped out the old switch with a screwdriver pressing down the tab on the bottom and unplugged the terminals. Then I plugged in the new switch and popped back into the socket. Piece of cake!

Repair was tremendously easy. All I did was remove old light switch by prying out with screw driver and plugging in the new light switch and pushing it into the hole. Simple! The instructions weren't needed, but they were very thorough.

After unplugging refrigerator, removed emitter and receiver cover plates on each side of freezer unit (3 screws each) and mounting screws for circuit boards. Unplugged old boards and plugged in new ones and reinstalled boards and then cover plates. Although, indicator code lights seem to still indicate a problem, ice maker has resumed operating after 24 hr.

Pried out the old switch and installed the new switch.

I replaced the Electronic control boards because the indicator lights were letting me know that there was a problem, but!!!! when that did not fix the problem, I took the ice maker out and removed the control module from the end of the icemaker only to find out that water had gotten in there and corroded the electronic contacts... this may have been why the indicator lights were not working on the emitter and receiver. I was going to purchase just the module, but the entire ice tray was beginning to de-laminate and plastic was flaking off all over. To make a long story somewhat shorter, I purchased a new icemaker and it works fine... one caution though... My icemaker did not come with any information that told me I had to flip the icemaker to the "on" position from vacation mode by inserting a screwdriver in the back of the module inside of a small white ring. This hole is where the shut off arm WOULD go if my model had one.

installed new parts

Did not have elec. schematics or instructions, thought the problem may be the emitter/receiver. Ordered these parts, and included in the package were instructions for testing the e/m bd. Followed instructions for testing the e/m and determined the e/m was OK. Did not remove the boards from the box. Checked the internet and found schematic for the ice maker, tested and determined the ice maker was faulty. Problem solved.

The best part of the repair was how easy it was to find and order the part. Instead of searching the parts houses around town I just went to the PartSelect web site, quickly found and ordered the part in about five minutes, received the part the next day at my home and was ready to make the repair. Wow! What a pleasure for something to work the way it was meant to. Removed old switch located by prying out with sharp knife or screwdriver. Don't worry about breaking it or cracking plastic. Disconnect(unplug) wires from back of switch. Replace (plug-in) wires on back of new switch. Insert in location of old switch. Finisheed.

1) unplug the refrigerator
2) remove the cover plate for the sensor board on your left facing the refrigerator
3) unplug the sensor board then remove the board from the cover plate.
4) install the new board onto the cover plate and
reinstall the board in to left side of the freezer compartment.
5) repeat this proces for the right side of the freezer compartment.
The two boards are very different and you will have no problem telling the difference between them.
6)Plug the refigerator back in and observe the red indicator light on the right hand side of the freezer compartment (it should be blinking) . Then hold down the flap on the left hand side and the blinking red light should go solid on. If it hasn't you have another problem with the ice maker.

removed 3 screws on each side of freezer where the ice maker controls are unplugged the circuit boards. un screwed the boards from the plastic and put the new ones in, reinstalled. now, Ice and not over flowing! :)

i replaced the electronic control board of emitter and receiver

My Ice maker would not release ice cubes, it thought the ice bin was full. So I got on You Tube and looked up how to videos. Partselect videos were the best that I found and the prices were low also. The whole repair took about 15 minutes.

Poped ou the old switch, connected new switch and pushed back into socket.

I used a knife blade to slip under the edge of old switch to pray it out of the hole it was inserted into, switched the wires and replaced the new switch into the same hole. It took about five minutes!

Removed old light switch by prying up and out of housing...removed wires (carefully not to get shocked!) and taped to inside of refrigerator housing. Ordered best matching part and rec'd it in a couple of days. Took less than 5 minutes to remove taped wires from side of cabinet and connect to new switch (which was a perfect match to the original equipment) and snap switch back into refrigerator housing! Works perfectly! Thanks!