JS968BK1BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Turn off breaker, disconnect electrical wiring, remove cooktop from courter top, turn over , remove switch.

Lid Switch.
Rewiring connection.
Function is satisfactory.
Fan belt ordered is saved.
A 1970 Clothes Washer.

1) Shut off power to oven
2) Removed oven door using snap down hinges on door
3) Removed 4-phillips head screws holding the oven frame to cabinets
4) Pulled oven out of cabinet and set it on stool in front of opening
5) Remove 2-hex screws holding metal shield covering the electrical wiring on back of oven
6) Unplugged bad thermostat connector
7) Removed the single hex screw holding thermostat inside the oven
8) Pulled the thermostat and lead wire from oven
9) Fed the new thermostat wire into inside back of oven
10) Reverse steps 1-7

Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.

RE: 2 yr. old GE double wall oven with convection option in upper oven, non-convection in lower oven: baked goods were not browning, were undercooked or burned. Tested both ovens on regular bake setting using 2 oven thermometers. Set ovens for 350. Although after 10 min both ovens beeped "ready", the oven thermometers actually read 200 - then would swing up as high as 500 and as low as 200 during the 20 min test period. Decided to first replace top oven sensor only, just in case it really was a more expensive control panel problem. It was a bit awkward to reach back there with the oven door in the way, but I have long arms! Aimed my flashlight, removed nuts with a socket wrench, pulled out the sensor, popped the clip and the old sensor easily separated from its connection. Snapped on the new sensor, pushed it back in and reset the nuts. Easy. Set the oven for 350 and tested again with 2 oven thermometers for 45 min. Voila! The oven thermometers read exactly 350 when the oven beeped "ready" and it stayed at 350 throughout the entire 45 min retest period with only a 3 degree variation both up and down. What a great improvement! Immediately went online to Parts Select and ordered another sensor for the bottom oven which was having the same problem. Fixed both ovens all for under $30 - and just in time for Christmas cookies! Don't want to know what the repair guy would have charged.......Merry Christmas!

Removed stove top from counter, removed glass top by removing 10 phillps screws, removed control bracked, unplugged connectors(wires) on old control and plugged into the correct position on the new control, replace control on the bracket then reinstalled the stove top and placed the stove top back into counter.

I just removed the drawer and installed the rear supports as instructed on paper included with the part.

Turned of the electric at the circuit breaker. Removed the cable clamps for the electric feed cable to enable free movement of cooktop. Lifted cooktop from the counter and propped up on counter ledge. Removed control knobs. Removed perimeter screws, 8 phillips, from around the edge of the cook top surface where it attaches to the sheet metal housing and lifted glass top off. Removed the failed burner and disconnected the four electrical leads. Removed the mounting tabs from the old burner and installed them on the new burner. Attached the electrical leads to the new burner and tightened with pliers. Reattached glass top and knobs, reinstalled in counter, clamped the electrical cable, flipped the breaker and tested. All good.

took out old gasket and inserted new

replaced Plastic Guides

Threw the old one out - plugged the new one in. Steak came out just as ordered - medium rare.

Remove the top back panel to expose the switch. Remove the switch knob & mounting bezel and then unscrew the 2 mounting screws from the front. Replace the wires one by one and follow the enclosed directions in the event that this is an upgrade for an older switch. Remount the switch from the front and replace the back panel.

Removed several screws and removed element. Replaced same. Total ten minutes.

First, disconnect electrical power to the stove by turning the main fuse to the off position. Confirm that there is no electrical power in the stove. The ceramic top is held by 10 screws that are closest to the ceramic surface. Other screws hold other parts of the stove and not need to be touched when opening the stove. Once the ceramic surface is off there is access to the burners and the various lights and switches. It is important to determine whether it is the burner that is defective or the switch. Inasmuch as the switch has many moving parts, the switch is more likely to be the defective part. Check the switch by gaining access to the switch connections. There is a metal frame held by two screws on each side in the outside of the stove (same area where the initial 10 screws were removed to separate the ceramic surface). Remove these screws and flip the switch assembly so all the wires and cables are accessible. I checked the switch with a continuity tester and by trial and error determined that there were two connections that in all the remainder three switches had continuity when the switch was in the on position while the suspect switch did not. Replaced the suspect switch by pulling the wires and replacing them in identical positions in the new switch (a smartphone camera became very useful to remind me were exactly each cable's connection was). Restore power by turning the fuse to the on position. Check that the burner lights up. If not, change the burner as well. Same simple procedure of disconnecting and connecting cables to the burner). Make sure to disconnect power before working on the burner. Replace the screws that hold the switch assembly. Replace the ceramic top. Replace the screws. Set stove back in its hole. Reset fuse. Total time: 35 mins. Total cost: Approx $25.00 (switch + delivery). Quoted repair by local appliance repair service: $487.50. No contest. Next project is to fix a leaky water dispenser in the refrigerator.

Turned power off to oven
Unscrewed broiler nuts (total of 4)
Pulled Broiler out from back of stove
Disconnected wires
Reconnected wire
Remounted broiler and replaced bolts
Turned power back on