JMW8530CAS Jenn-Air Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Repair was just exactly like a dozen I read before I ordered the part. Turn off breaker. Remove 4 phillips head screws on the bottom of the clock face. Tilt out from the bottom, take out 4 screws with 1/4" nutdriver, unplug 3 wiring harnesses. Replace in reverse order and turn the power back on.

Turned off power to the oven. Removed the four screws on the bottom of the control panel. The panel then needed to be lifted up just a bit to release from a bracket that holds the top in place. Because this is a built-in with a microwave oven above it I had to remove four screws to take off the decorative facade from around the microwave.

Once the surround on the microwave was removed I slide up the control panel. Removed 3 cables from the timer and the 4 screws holding it in place. Installed the new timer (4 screws and 3 cables), put the control panel back in place. Four screws in the bottom of the panel, four screws in the surround and done. Turned the power back on to the oven and 2 days later cooked a turkey for Thanksgiving.

Number one: trip the breaker on the oven. Next, I removed four screws from the bottom of the front display panel. Then, unhooked the panel and gently placed it on the counter next to it. Then I un-plugged each of the three inputs and plugged them into the new component. I then unscrewed the four hex screws from assembly and removed the old unit. I reversed the process and screwed it back in, and when I turned on the circuit breaker, everything worked as advertised. Total time: less than 15 minutes.

I removed 4 screws on the under side of the glass that held the clock assy. removed the glass panel and removed 3 connectors off the back. Removed the 4 screws holding down the clock assy with a nut driver. Put the new part in place and it was back together in 3 min. Easy Peezy I would of felt foolish hireing a repairman to do this job....

installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

I removed the four screws that hold the control panel in place, unpluged the three wire connectors, and removed the clock assembly by removing four screws that hold it in place. Next I replaced the four screws that hold the clock in place, pluged in the wire connectors, and replaced the control panel. It was a very simple task.

I replaced the heating element but that didn’t help. So then I replaced the oven sensor and that didn’t work either. Both were pretty easy to do but I’ve now spend $170 and my oven still isn’t working. I called number listed and got a recording that all agents were busy and there was a high call volume so I can’t get any help.

Followed the very clear instructions written by others who also had a combination microwave/oven. Complication encountered because my oven is built into the cabinetry right next to a built-in refrigerator that protrudes by several inches. No room to get a screwdriver in to loosen the screws for the faceplate of the microwave on one side in order to remove the oven's display panel. Luckily had just the tip of a Phillips head and used pliers to carefully turn it just a bit with each turn until screw came out. Also didn't have the right tool to loosen the clock display little hex screws and used pliers for that as well. It was tough to get two of the electrical connections out--had to be careful wiggling them free so as not to break the wires. Finally used a tiny little flathead screwdriver to gently work each side up a bit until the whole connection could be pulled out. Took longer than it needed to.

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

Removed the four screws that hold the oven assembly in the cabinet, slid it part way out and let the front edge rest on the kitchen stool (these puppies are heavy!)

Removed bezel from around the microwave, removed screws that hold the microwave in, and slid it out.

removed the microwave tracks, and removed the top panel from the oven.

remove four screws that hold the timer to the front panel, unplugged three connectors, and remove timer.

Plug the three connectors back in; watch out, the pins bend easily!

Re-install the four screws; the top two are hard to see. A magnet on the nutdriver helps.

Re-install top panel, microwave tracks.

slide the microwave in, re-install bezel.

Heave the whole thing back into the cabinet, and shim to level; important step! otherwise the door won't close right.

Re-install the four screws that keep it in the cabinet. Not needed for strength, just in case gravity decides to stop operating.

Important; don't forget to cut off power before removing, don't forget to plug the microwave back in (ask me how I know) or you'll be pulling it out again.

Easy job except for two invisible screws, heavy components, and sharp-edged sheet metal. Probably saved more than $200 on service charges, between saving on parts and labor.

My wife help take the door off. It was a little heavy . The door came apart very easy and went back the same way.We save over $300 by doing it our selfs.

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

Flipped off breaker and removed oven door and pulled built in stove out so the back panel could be removed. Unplugged the sensor then removed the two screws securing the old sensor inside the oven and installed new sensor. Put stove back together and installed back into counter top, re-installed oven door, flipped on the breaker and oven works like new.

Had to remove oven from mounting cabinet to get to the back since the wire lenght to the conector was to short to come through the mounting hole.
Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cable adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.