JMV9196CB6 Maytag Microwave - Instructions

I measured. I leveled. I mounted hanging bracket and here's where it got tricky because you need two people to raise the microwave into position. I'd stack 2x4's In the back by the wall. I'd stackem in the front on the cabinet top then raise the back and add more. You get it front back front back until it's high enough to snag the bracket. Holes pre drilled raise it on up tighten bolts and poof you're done!! I did loosen the screws that pull the cabinets together and the bottom screw that holes the cabinet on one side. It didn't seem like it needed it the way it slipped in but maybe it slipped in because I did it. Only takes a minute. Use a minute here save an hour there. Go do it! Times a wastin!!

Removed the microwave from above the oven by loosening the two screws above the microwave. As the unit tilted outward lifted up and the whole unit came out all the time feeding the power cord through the cutout for the power cord. After it was out removed the cover and identified the capacitor and made sure it was discharged and removed and replaced the diode. tested before reinstalling and it heated up just fine. Reversed order and reinstalled . Very easy job maybe a second hand to help fish the power cord when installing and removing.

One Phillip's screw to remove glass on bottom of unit. Pull old bulb out & insert new bulb. Replace glass & screw.

I used the microwave model number to order a replacement turntable. We received the item and it did not fit. Not even close. I will have to send it back. Very disappointed

The halogen light bulb is very tight in the socket and difficult to remove by hand. Read reviews by other customers who had the same issue and complained that they ended up breaking the bulb trying to remove it. If broken may require an on-site service technician to remove the whole assembly with additional much higher cost and time. I found wrapping some duct tape around the burned-out bulb made it easier to grip and remove the old bulb without breaking it.
Based on some You-Tube videos I watched newer models now use LED light panels which appear to solve this problem.

Unplug the microwave. Removed the glass tray, the roller ring, and plastic piece that sits on the motor shaft from the inside of the microwave. Remove the 12 Phillips head screws from the bottom of microwave, let the bottom hang down on the mounting hooks at the rear of the microwave. Remove the 2 torx screws from the mounting bracket under the microwave lower the turntable motor remove the two leads. Transfer the rubber washer from the old motor to the new and reassemble and test. It took longer to write these instructions than it did to do the job.

Hint: if the microwave is over a stove lay a towel across the stove to catch any screws that may fall.

Good luck and enjoy your fully functional microwave!

I first unplugged the microwave. I then unscrewed the 2 screws from the top grill. I had to be careful because the grill was cracked close to each screw. It was a little tricky to remove the grill. Had to tilt it down as I removed it, and make sure the microwave door was opened as wide as possible. Filters were placed as the old ones, with the metal part up I believe. A little tricky to get one of the filters to fit. Grill was replaced with care so as not to further Crack it. Kind of maneuvered grill back in place, getting right side in place first. I noticed there were several tabs on the grill that needed to be placed inside of the microwave body while reinstalling the grill. Once the grill was in place, the 2 screws were put in to hold the grill in place.

Remove “over the stove” unit. Remove unit shell case. Unscrew and disconnect diode. Replace diode. Re-assemble. Put unit back in place.

remove 6 lower screws, removed lower panel,2 screws holding drive motor,lower motor, remove old coupling from inside microwave and replace with new coupling, re install motor,install lower panel and screws.no more sparks

mounted bracket, case closed.

Unplug microwave
Remove bottom of Microwave with phillips screwdriver.
Remove connecting wires to Motor
Remove Motor (2 Screws) with Torx Wrench.
Transfer seal from old motor to new moter
Re-install motor
Connect wires
Reinstall Bottom of microwave
Plug back into outlet

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Removed panel and installed upper and lower switches. I did this because it did not do it all the time. When I removed the switches I used a ohms meter to check continuity but they all checked out at first then I started playing around with the buttons on each switch by pushing in on them and letting off and found one when you pushed in and out three or four times that one switch would jump back and forth by ohms meter that was the bad switch. If any one else has that problem the switch might show continuity when you first test but click the switch button a few times to see if you get a different reading. Microwave up running. Thanks Partselect.

This should be a 1 minute repair. However, there are a few issues. First, make sure you order the correct bulb. Mine is a halogen push in bulb, but the parts list showed a screw in bulb.
Remove power from the unit OR be sure that the light is turned off with the push switch.. The display will show the status as you rotate through the dim levels.
There is a single Phillips head screw holding the cover on the underside of the over stove microwave. carefully remove it. When loose the panel will drop down and you will find the old bulb in the center of the front of the opening. Remove the bulb. Now the important part. Carefully unpack the new bulb being careful to not touch the glass with your bare hands or fingers. Then insert the bulb into the socket.
If you unplugged the unit then plug it back in and push the switch to check that the new bulb works and is in the socket, then turn it back off.
Carefully lift the cover back into position and replace the screw. This is the hard part as you are working upside down and can't really see when it is lined up properly. When you have the screw back in and tight you are done. Press the light switch to enjoy your lit up stove again and put your tools away.
If you get your fingers on the glass bulb then clean it off with some rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to remove any finger oils before you put the cover back in place. Finger oils can boil with the heat of the lit bulb and cause the glass to explode. This holds true for any halogen bulb.

Remove the two screws to the plastic vent strip at the top of the unit. That exposes a metal cover (upper right) held in place by two more screws. (Found that removing the screw holding the key panel in place and moving that out of the way made for more work room) Remove the metal cover. The HV diode (visible) on one end is secured to the chassis by a screw. The other end is fitted to the HV capacitor. So unscrew one end and pull the HV diode off the capacitor. The replacement fits on like the old one came off. Very simple repair. But it would be safe to short the capacitor terminals to the chassis first. Noticed that it appeared the sparking was caused by the HV diode's outer casing being worn by the asbestos covered wire next to it and laying against it. I made sure the two were not touching, before putting the covers back on. Also, the problem started with an occasional spark when the MW started. It quickly deteriorated to a full, non-stop electrical sparking. You can hear it, smell it, and see it through the top vent. You don't need to remove unit to work on it.

Used a philips head screwdriver to remove one screw holding the light cover. Pulled out the old bulb and inserted the new one. Replaced the cover.