JJW9630CAS Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

Husband got on partselect.com and read reviews, we ordered a long oven sensor kit. When it came in the mail, I took it out and look at it, decided I could probably switch the part.... and so I did. Easy Breezy ... and it worked well

removed the four philips screw on the oen cover plate. slid the plate off and disconnected the serial wires. removed the four 1/4 hex nuts holding the control panel on. replaced with the new control panel and replaced the four screw nuts. re-assembled the serial wires, placed the coveer plate and replaced the four set screws. that easy.

Removed a couple of screws and removed display panel. Replaced clock display on back of the panel- was held on by two small hex head screws -1/4" nut driver and phillips screw driver were the only tools required, very easy repair that
the appliance repair man wanted 750$ to do.

Removed 4 screws thathold the diplay panel on, unplugged three electrical connectors and removed for screws holding the display on. Easy!

1. Unscrewed glass cover on bulb
2. Removed old bulb
3. Screwed in new bulb
4. Replaced glass cover
5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

Turned power off to the unit at the breaker. Opened oven door and removed ( 4 ) Phillips Head screws. Carefully lifted control panel and unplugged 3 flat cables carefully. Placed unit on a soft cloth and removed ( 4 ) 1/4" screws with nut driver. Install new unit and repeat the process in reverse.

Very easy if you take your time.

Took the door apart and replaced the hinge, very easy

We had a wood tray in the oven (yes i know) and it is a two stacked oven and turned the wrong oven to broil. The fire was put out quickly but the Latch door switch and assembly was damaged.
The 3D breakout of the appliance made it a jiffy to select the correct part numbers. Shipping is very good from Parts Select.
The Front assembly for the lower oven comes out with 6 screws. Disconnect the Door Switch Connector push it out and replace that. The Latch Assembly requires a small wrench. It is a bad design but patience will get you there. Once the assembly is out disconnect electrical connectors. Don't worry each connector is unique I advice do it one for one.
Overall you need a skill of three stars out of five to complete this task

Installed new thermostat. Went well. Now the oven comes on and it takes 2.5 hours to come up to 250 degrees. Help!

First I checked the lower element. Resistance measured within range. Then I checked the temperature sensor. Again, resistance within range. So I decided it must be the relay board. I was very nervous given the price of the relay board. I ended up leaving the oven in place so it was a bit difficult reaching the relay board and noting where all the different wires went. After about 30 minutes and at first plugging one of the wires on the wrong position, the oven worked perfectly. I suspect I saved a lot of money having a repair person come to the house. Thanks for all the on-line help!

Replaced oven gasket and both oven hinges. Repairs did not work. Oven door is actually worst. Do not waste your time replacing the oven hinges unless they are actually broken. When to Ace hardware and bought a package of 3 super magnets for about $10. Practice placing the magnets on metal strip on outside of the actual oven vs the oven door. This metal strip is not galvanized for which the oven cleaning latch goes through. Appeared to solve the problem. I then used epoxy glue to insure the super magnets would permanently stay in place. These are dangerous magnets that must be kept away from children and pets. You will spend more time separating these magnets from each other than gluing them in place. This part I will let you figure out but the only way to separate the 3 magnets from each other is the slide them, one at a time, from each other. Now I am awaiting 4 to 6 hours for the epoxy to cure. Best of luck. Jeff

Parts package contained no instructions. Found all instructions on internet. I used Phillips head to remove two screws on anchor plate of Long Oven Sensor. Located at upper left, back corner of oven; access to screws is not simple/easy. Screws back out w/o difficulty. Pull/extract sensor harness through hole[back of oven] which required pushing aside insulation. The harness barely fits thru hole in oven back metal wall; I recommend using needle nose pliers ( which I ended up doing ) for ease of extraction. Disconnect harness plastic interlok clips. Perfect reconnection of new clip harness with ease. Reverse procedure to complete installation/repair. Done in just over 35 minutes due to wrestling with harness extraction through minimal hole opening. Failure occurred on Thanksgiving Day with 22lbs turkey in oven. Top of turkey contacted sensor tip which eventually caused sensor fault; result was scorched upper breast and oven shut down [safety by design]. Cook top was still operative; clock and all readings on digital control panel ceased. With new 'long oven sensor' installed - good as new. Will be sure to buy turkey(s) under 20lbs in future. Jim in Seattle

Removed the back of the stove, un-pluged the sensor wires, removed the sensor from inside the oven. installed the new sensor, pluged in the wires, and replaced the back of the stove. A phillips screwdriver was the only tool needed.

The oven did not auto clean. Problem was the sensor stopped working. Tried to repair from the front but could not get the connector through the hole. Removed the rear panel and found the connector had melted. Could not find a new wireing harnes on line, so I cut the wires on the stove and the new sensor coupling. Spliced the wires togather. The oven cooks fine, I have not tried the cleaning cycle yet.