JFC2290REP02 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

followed the instructions provided and that's it!

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

First I removed the six screws from the cover. I then disconnected the two wires and pulled the small motor out with its base and removed two screws that hold it in place. I then changed the old one for the new one and set it back in its place. I then set the cover back and turned it on. I was happy again.

1) Remove Deli Center drawer and lid 2) Remove the two Crisper Drawers above the Deli Center 3) Remove the glass shelf above the Crisper Drawers. 4) Remove the front and brackets that held the glass shelf. 5) Remove the broken end cap by sliding it upward off the brackets that hold it to the side of the refrigerator, 6) Slide on new end cap. Replace the other parts in reverse order of removal. You will probably want to clean the parts you have removed before reinstalling. Easy- peasy.

Received the union I ordered, then discovered that the tubes were different sizes, so I had the wrong part. I had read elsewhere that it was necessary to trim the two ends of the tubes with a box cutter to stop the leaks - I did this, and the leaking stopped. I was then able to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/16 to 1/4 union and replace it. The leaking is stopped, and the water supply in the door is now working like new. No problem with partselect, but I did buy a caliper so that I can check tube diameters if I ever have a similar problem! This is a great site to find instructions - well worth the time to search!

I called the installer of my filter unit and he told me that often, thhe fridge filter is the problem. Like magic it worked

first pressed in two bottom corners then used fingers to press in bottom section,pressed in two top corners then pressed in both sides using fingers followed by pressing in top section using fingers.VERY EASY !

Unplug the fridge then wheel the refrigerator out to where you can get to the back - you will probably have to disconnect the ice maker water hose. Using the nut driver remove all the screws from the lower panel on the fridge. You will not have to remove the water hose connection just move the panel around a little. Look on the left side (facing the back of the fridge) you will see the capacitor held onto the compressor with a spring clip. Just pull the clip toward you and that will free the capacitor. Pull up on the capacitor and that will unplug it from the compressor. Be careful not to touch the two poles on the old capacitor. Capacitors store electricity and it could give you a jolt. I used electrical tape to insulate the poles and then threw it away. Plug in the new capacitor- re-hook the clip, reinstall the back panel, plug it in and verify that the fridge is working. Hook your water hose back up and move it back into place and you are done.

You need to remove both humidifier drawers plus the glass shelf for the bottom of the humidifier drawers and the bar at the front as a start. If I had known this before starting it would have sped up the install time. Then, pull out the deli drawer.

To remove the end cap (either side) there is a plastic tab to push down on just over halfway back and then you can slide up the front of the end cap. Once you have slid up the front of the end cap a few inches, (past the channel it is locked into), you can pull it forward. You can observe the configuration on the spare part to see how this needs to be done.

To install the new end cap, reverse this process. The trickiest part is then re-inserting the deli drawer and the lid. Getting the lid onto the two axles was a bit of a struggle as the fit is very tight. Re-installing the humidifier parts is much easier. My repair time included using the opportunity to clean all of the removed drawers and shelves. If you know about the need to remove the humidifier drawers ahead of time and eliminate the cleaning I think this would take less than 15 minutes.

Reviewed replacement instructions video on your website. Just followed the easy instructions to pop out old cover and pop in new cover. I would not have tried to replace it myself had I not seen your video. Super easy.

Must remove all shelves, pantry drawer , bins above pantry drawer.
Once everything is out of the way grasp the old, broken end end and pull directly straight up, if the refrigerator is a little older it may take a very strong pull. Needless to say this model is the newer model with no screws holding the end cap in place.
Once the old piece is out just located the three pins position the new piece over these pins and press down should clip right into place.
Very easy after old piece is removed.
Take a picture of the bins and drawers before you start so you have a reference when returning those pieces back.

replaced the poorly designed "duck bill" drain with this P trap. Very simple repair done by accessing through the back of the refrigerator. The video on this website walked me right through the repair. It did however fail to mention that the ice has to be removed from the inside. I had to remove the drawer face and pull outs. Then the ice maker and back panel are removed. I used a heat gun and screwdriver to chip and melt the ice build up. If one had the luxury of having another refrigerator to move food in to you could just unplug the unit until the ice melts.

The other instructions and the video provided by Parts Direct are pretty good with instructions, but they omit two steps. First, if you have an ice maker, you will need to unplug the connector on the back side of the panel you remove at the back of the refrigerator to access the drain tube. Just unplug it and you can move the removed panel to the side without disconnecting any of the water lines. Second, the instructions say to just reconnect the "bottom end" of the new p-trap drain to the drain pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. They don't tell you there are two places to connect the new p-trap to the drain pan. The original tube/trough connected to the one at the back of the drain pan on the left (viewed from the rear of the refrigerator). At first, it looks like the new p-trap won't reach to it for the connection, but if you look closer, there is another connector to the right of the original one that the p-trap connects to properly. Replacing the drain trough with the new p-trap was actually pretty easy and would only take about a half hour. Add another half hour to give the refrigerator coils a good cleaning as they will need it now that you can reach them. The real time consumer, 3 to 4 hours, is needed to use a hair dryer to melt and clear the ice from the condenser at the back of the freezer so the water can drain. Just take your time and all the ice will eventually melt and drain out so the new p-trap will work properly.

Watched numerous U tube videos to prepare ourselves as well as instructions from other posters. Tried to pay attention on how we disassembled thing with limited success. Installing the new end caps proved to be easier that we expected since they weren’t screwed in but just snapped in. We think that’s because it’s a newer model that what we saw on U tube.

Ez job. Perfect fit.