JFC2290REM03 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplug the fridge then wheel the refrigerator out to where you can get to the back - you will probably have to disconnect the ice maker water hose. Using the nut driver remove all the screws from the lower panel on the fridge. You will not have to remove the water hose connection just move the panel around a little. Look on the left side (facing the back of the fridge) you will see the capacitor held onto the compressor with a spring clip. Just pull the clip toward you and that will free the capacitor. Pull up on the capacitor and that will unplug it from the compressor. Be careful not to touch the two poles on the old capacitor. Capacitors store electricity and it could give you a jolt. I used electrical tape to insulate the poles and then threw it away. Plug in the new capacitor- re-hook the clip, reinstall the back panel, plug it in and verify that the fridge is working. Hook your water hose back up and move it back into place and you are done.

Reviewed replacement instructions video on your website. Just followed the easy instructions to pop out old cover and pop in new cover. I would not have tried to replace it myself had I not seen your video. Super easy.

Must remove all shelves, pantry drawer , bins above pantry drawer.
Once everything is out of the way grasp the old, broken end end and pull directly straight up, if the refrigerator is a little older it may take a very strong pull. Needless to say this model is the newer model with no screws holding the end cap in place.
Once the old piece is out just located the three pins position the new piece over these pins and press down should clip right into place.
Very easy after old piece is removed.
Take a picture of the bins and drawers before you start so you have a reference when returning those pieces back.

You need to remove both humidifier drawers plus the glass shelf for the bottom of the humidifier drawers and the bar at the front as a start. If I had known this before starting it would have sped up the install time. Then, pull out the deli drawer.

To remove the end cap (either side) there is a plastic tab to push down on just over halfway back and then you can slide up the front of the end cap. Once you have slid up the front of the end cap a few inches, (past the channel it is locked into), you can pull it forward. You can observe the configuration on the spare part to see how this needs to be done.

To install the new end cap, reverse this process. The trickiest part is then re-inserting the deli drawer and the lid. Getting the lid onto the two axles was a bit of a struggle as the fit is very tight. Re-installing the humidifier parts is much easier. My repair time included using the opportunity to clean all of the removed drawers and shelves. If you know about the need to remove the humidifier drawers ahead of time and eliminate the cleaning I think this would take less than 15 minutes.

replaced the poorly designed "duck bill" drain with this P trap. Very simple repair done by accessing through the back of the refrigerator. The video on this website walked me right through the repair. It did however fail to mention that the ice has to be removed from the inside. I had to remove the drawer face and pull outs. Then the ice maker and back panel are removed. I used a heat gun and screwdriver to chip and melt the ice build up. If one had the luxury of having another refrigerator to move food in to you could just unplug the unit until the ice melts.

The other instructions and the video provided by Parts Direct are pretty good with instructions, but they omit two steps. First, if you have an ice maker, you will need to unplug the connector on the back side of the panel you remove at the back of the refrigerator to access the drain tube. Just unplug it and you can move the removed panel to the side without disconnecting any of the water lines. Second, the instructions say to just reconnect the "bottom end" of the new p-trap drain to the drain pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. They don't tell you there are two places to connect the new p-trap to the drain pan. The original tube/trough connected to the one at the back of the drain pan on the left (viewed from the rear of the refrigerator). At first, it looks like the new p-trap won't reach to it for the connection, but if you look closer, there is another connector to the right of the original one that the p-trap connects to properly. Replacing the drain trough with the new p-trap was actually pretty easy and would only take about a half hour. Add another half hour to give the refrigerator coils a good cleaning as they will need it now that you can reach them. The real time consumer, 3 to 4 hours, is needed to use a hair dryer to melt and clear the ice from the condenser at the back of the freezer so the water can drain. Just take your time and all the ice will eventually melt and drain out so the new p-trap will work properly.

By sliding athin screwdriver blade down the side of the old switch the expasion prong that hold the switch in place was compressed enough to allow the switch to come out easlily. Plugged in new swithc and snapped in place. Plugged the refrigerator back in and light has worked great sense!

Watched numerous U tube videos to prepare ourselves as well as instructions from other posters. Tried to pay attention on how we disassembled thing with limited success. Installing the new end caps proved to be easier that we expected since they weren’t screwed in but just snapped in. We think that’s because it’s a newer model that what we saw on U tube.

I turned the light bulb into the socket

Ez job. Perfect fit.

Unscrew filter. Screw on filter bypass

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

Ordered new fan motor
Got part took fridge apart
Result was the motor was running
The fan blade had come off the motor
Replaced the motor anyway and reinstalled the fan, working well

Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked