JES9800AAW Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

My genius scientist husband responsible all electric string connections, I responsible buy right parts and all support work, we worked as a team and fix the problems:) :)

Raised the unit and blocked it with 2 boards. TURN OFF THE POWER IF YOU WANT TO COMPLETE THIS REPAIR. Removed the philip head screws for removal of glass top. Remove the corner screws on switch end. Remove screws holding the switch. Remove screws holing the bracket for all switches. Lift and roll gently to get at wiring. Follow the directions for moving wires from old switch to new switch. MOVING WIRES IS THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP. Reverse your procedure to put back together and when finished remember to turn on the power.

Remove the door.
Remove screws
Clear out broken glass. Vacuum out small glass shards.
Clean all glass.
Reattach all parts.
Replace the door.
Smile!

Door was removed very easily. Outside trim pieces were removed. The rest came apart like a simple puzzle. Inside glass is very easily accessed. Upon assembling, time was well under an hour. Shipping was fantastic and I saved close to 200dollars between a service call and a repair.

Watch the video. Spot on instructions. Easy peasy.

Removed glass top from stove by taking out hex screws which secured glass top to stove frame. There are two phillips head screws inside the exhaust as well. Removed two phillips head screws which hold the burner switch in place. With a sharpie pen I marked the color coded wires on the faulty switch. Removed wires from the faulty switch. Replaced new switch using the old switch as a guide to insure that wires were connected properly. Secured new switch and glass burner top reversing above procedure. Problem solved. Note: The white dot on the control knob did not line up properly with the off position. Black out white dot and make a new one in the proper spot on the knob.

Trial and error and reading and rereading the instructions.The use of the jumper wire was not detailed enough. Caller a repair man.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

I did not mark wires with their associated numbered connections on the old burner but I did take pictures prior to removing the old burner. This slightly complicated finding the right connections for the wires on the new burner but the photos taken were invaluable in doing so. The placement of burner connections between new and old was different. Additionally, there were 2 connections on new and old that were not numbered. These turned out to be the power to the inner and outer coils and their connections were determined by examining the burners and connecting accordingly. Also, not mentioned in the instructions was a light on the new burner that the old burner did not have. I removed the light and the wire connecting it to the burner and connected the freed new burner connector based on the old/new burner connection numbering. Despite my lack of confidence that I correctly installed the burner, it worked on the first try and I am very happy to have it fully functional again.

It is very easy shut off the power yo the stove at the fuse box, unscrew the two screws and pull the element out replace and screw back into place.

Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!

replaced burner by following the wiring from the photo we took. worked god except was cooking to hot and would not cycle. went to use my smaller burner in the back on the same side and the center of the double came on. so we watched another video looked at what we did wrong with the wiring. here we wired the burner slightly wrong we did not follow the numbering. this time followed the numbering and all is good. burner is working good and cycling.

Bought new hinges as that was the obvious problem.
Below is the removal, installation process for new hinges. Turns out in my case there was nothing wrong with the hinges. Problem was still there after installing new ones. I found that the metal in the door that butted against the hinges was fatigued causing looseness. I ended up compressing the metal back into shape with a hammer. Problem solved but money wasted on hinges.
If you replace hinges. Here is what I did.
1. Open door slightly to where it stops in broiler position.
2. Remove the door by pulling up.
3. Remove two screws in front of hinges that hold them in.
4. Pull range out a few inches for access the remove the side fillers that trim out the stove.
5. Reach in from the side and work hinges out.
5. Pop in new hinges and reattach the 2 front holding screws and the side trim screws.
You are done.

Hired a pro. Parts are difficult to get on a timely basis today , if at all. Screw up this repair by damaging the outer " black glass " and you buy a new stove. It took three weeks to get my replacement glass even though PS said the part was being sent within a day of the order. Even so , I am am happy to have gotten it , and will continue to use the company.