JEB1095WB04 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Just unscrewed the screw holding the lens, unscrewed the bulb and put the new bulb in. Simple

changed the bulb

so easy, but how do i turn light off?

Part recieved next day. thanks so much

With many thanks to those who posted their experience and advice replacing the bulb, I was able to remove 5 of the 6 screws holding the underside panel and remove the socket which contained the broken off base of the bulb and extract it with needle-nose pliers. I had broken off the glass portion of the bulb trying to unscrew it due to the awkward contortion of my wrist-hand-fingers trying to grip the bulb inside the tight recess the bulb is mounted in. After concluding that I needed more information, I did a web search for 'Hotpoint RVM1435' and found helpful advice at partselect.com telling me to drop the bottom panel. Good call! Thanks everyone!

My son=law did repair because I am elderly and it was necesary to remove the bottom plate of the microwave which I was unable to do. The microwave was installed in 1987 and I believe this was the first time to replace the bulbs. When my son removed them the bulb was diintergrated. That's how old they were. Once he was able to remove the underneath plate the repair was easy except for removing the old bulbs. I think that I could have done it myself but he was available and I am sure it was done much better. All in all the parts)bulbs) were correct and everything is workiin fine. This is a good place to order replacement parts. In fact I am going to order a new charcoal filter. He took the label off the old one and I am ordering the replacement. After all 1987 may have been a good year, but time for a new one. Mary

removed the lens cover with one screw and replaced bulb

remove cover-unplug wires from secondary switch-remove switch-snap in new switch-plug in wires-replace cover-works great. very easy to do.

Turn off main power bracker. Removed fan vent, removed control panel, disconnect leads to the three monitor switches. Replaced the secondary switch (top). Reversed procedures.

Because the microwave is old and the bulbs, I believe, had never been changed I carefully tried to unscrew the bulb. However, when I went to unscrew the bulbs the end of the bulb broke off and remained in the socket. I used a few different tools then remembered that sometimes a raw potatoe can be used to unscrew the remainder of the bulb, but to no avail. Finally had to unscrew the whole underside of the microwave to remove the broken bulb. May I suggest that you have the socket face away from the wall to screw in the bulb instead of the socket pointing toward the wall. You need to know yoga just to manuver the bulb into the socket.

Opened the microwave oven door, unscrewed two screws which held the control panel on, then I removed two of the door switches (each had two screws), and then used the continuity tester to see which one was not operating. It turned out to be the secondary door switch, replaced it and to my amazement, the microwave worked. I have never repaired an appliance before but I didn't want to replace our over-the-stove built in microwave. It was the best day ever when it was working again! The hardest part was getting myself to try the repair.

Watched How to repair a Microwave that turns on when the door is opened Video on the web. From this took a shot at the switch was the problem. When I removed the switch it was defective. The small button was in and when you turned the switch upside down the button would drop back into position. Ordered a switch for $25.oo , installed it and the microwave is working fine.

Remove the microwave cover. Requires a phillips screwdriver and a torx security bit/nut driver (there are two security type screws on the back...guess they don't want you to do this at home!). I had to buy the a security bit set (about $7). The diode is easily accessible on the right side under the fan. Requires removing on small phillips screw and unplugging on electrical connection. GE provides some instructions in an envelope on top (after cover removed). There is a warning/instruction to discharge the capacitor before service. This was not a problem for me. Actual diode replacement took 30 seconds. Whole job = 15 minutes.

Removed the microwave with the buit in housing from the cabinet. Removed microwave from built in housing. Removed outer cabinet giving access to remove control panel and smart board where switches are located. Removed control panel to get to smartboard. Removed smart board after disconnecting a few wires to allow easy removal. Individually removed and then tested each switch using multimeter. Found seondary Door Switch (bottom of smart board) operation to be intermittent (switch trip button extremely loose and rattle inside this particular switch) Ordered replacement part which came very quickly on standard shipping order. Put new switch on smart board and remounted, reinstalled control panel and reconnected various wire connectors previously disconnected. Then plugged in oven and tested for opertation - didn't work at all! But, after bleeding off capacior charge by removing connectors and discharging capacitor to ground, then reassembling control board and smart board into oven, then trying agian, it has worked perfectly ever since. Do not understand why capacitor disconnect/discharge was required but suspect this reset the control electronics. Easy fix and hope to get another 12 years out of this appliance which is used multiple times every day. Also have two other identical micorwave ovens, one is 20 years old, but these get used relatively infrequently.

Changing 2 lightbulbs is NOT ROCKRT SCIENCE. With a screw-driver, remove the under MW light lens, unscrew the 2 burned out light bulbs, and replace with 2 new quality light bulbs. Test out that both are lite and working as they should, replace the lens and you are done, Until you find out one of the new (made in Chins) light bulbs is burned out after about 6 hours of being lite, call the parts phonr number and order a new replace bulb.

Loosen the two long anchor bolts that screw into the top of the microwave cabinet. These are usually in a shelf or cabinet directly above the microwave. Tilt the microwave forward enough to remove the 2 Phillips head screws from the top of the microwave cabinet. They are near the front. When these two screws are out, remove the fan vent. Once the fan vent is off, remove one screw that holds the control pad in place. Let it hang down. Just to the left of the control pad, you will see wires leading to three switches that close when the door is closed. Use a torx driver to remove the two screws that hold the switch bracket in place. With the bracket out, unplug the wire harnesses. On the opposite side of the wiring connected, a tab holds each switch in place. Lift the tab and slide the switches out. Usually, the bad switch will be identified by a loose or broken spring. Test them by pressing down on the switch. If you notice the bad switch spring, this is usually the bad one. When you have the new one, simply push it back into the appropriate slot and be sure that the holding tab snaps back in place. Plug the wires back in and re-attach the bracket. Put the control pad back on, then the fan vent. When down with those, push on the bottom of the microwave to lift it back into place and tighten the two anchor bolts in the top.