JE740GY010 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

The microwave had been working fine until one day when the timer counted down but the heating motor (or whatever you call it) would not come on. So the timer would count down but nothing inside would get hot. I did not know what it was for sure but decided to take it apart and look. Once I had the control panal off, I found three small wired switches inside. One of these switches appeared to have shorted out. So I searched online and found Partselect.com. I found a matching switch , ordered it (arrived in couple days), put it in, and VOILA it works! Thanks Partselect.com.

I've been fixing and taking things apart since I was a kid. I hoped that it was a bad switch in the door. Got out my test meter and check the 3 different switches. All 3 tested good, but one was a bit hit and miss. It would work if the microwave was on its side and wouldn't when it was set flat. I found the switch online and installed it. Took care of the problem.It was a whole lot cheaper than buying a new microwave. Thanks! Bill Brown, Fridley, MN

Fortunately, my brother-in-law suggested it might be the "cut out" switch. After unplugging the microwave, I opened it up and identified one of two cut outs and removed the wires from each side of the cut out. To test if that was the problem, I connected the two wires together, bypassing the cut out. When I plugged the unit back into the wall socket, the lights came back on, and i ran the microwave for a few seconds. It verified that this was the problem. I ordered the part and when it arrived, I removed it with a philips screw driver and replaced it with the new one. I replaced the screw, buttoned the unit back up, plugged it in, and saved a few hundred bucks on a replacement microwave, and as important, saved our landfills and planet a tiny but.

Took the cabinet off the microwave and checked for a fuse. Found that it was good, then checked for the voltage path to the controls and found the cavity thermal cut out was not conducting. Using a voltage meter to check things. Unplug the microwave for several of the tests. You must know how to work with electricity to do this. Installed the new part and the microwave now works. As a hint to what had happened my wife had heated a large casserole then right after that went to heat a smaller dish. At that time the microwave was hot and did not restart.

Per the troubleshooting diagram inside the microwave oven, I discovered the one of the TCO was open (using Ohmmeter). Found my microwave oven model on PartSelect and used the diagram to select the TCO needed and placed order. Part came in three days, installed new TCO, reconnected wires and the microwave oven was back working in 10 minutes.

Took cover off, noted the two side by side switches easily visible and we hought one of these was responsible. Then son noted a third switch at the top of the plastic assembly which inserts at an odd angle. When it was inspected signs of a previous short showed up with burnt contact points. Reinserted at same odd angle as there were guide holes, closed things up and oven worked 100%. Great prompt service and great website!! We will use you again

Primary door switch was shorted and blew the fuse when the oven was plugged in. Replaced primary door interlock switch.

must of had loose connection from wire terminal
to thermostat from factory. thermostat and wires
were melted. removed thermostat. and cut burnt
wires back. replaced thermostat and terminals.
used better quality terminals than factory.
also checked and tightened other loose connections. there was enough wire left after cut back to just put on new terminals.

took of cover removed switch and replaced with new one

Took the cover off (removed the five screws, two of which were security screws off the back) and found one connector on the thermal cut out with its shielding melted. Very easy swap out of the new cut out and we were up and running as if new.

this is not fair to the do it yourself person because I have been an electrican for forty one years I removed the cover spotted the burnt limit switch ordered the part replaced the part and checked operation of the microwave thanks for the painless task of locating and ordering of needed part

I thought I was setting the timer only on the microwave and accidently cooked an empty oven for 10 minutes. It was dead and I used the schematic and figured out the problem. Got the part and installed in 10 or less minutes. Oven is back in action.

Most of the effort is simply getting the oven out of the built in enclosure and the sheet metal off. This take about 15 minutes then you have to remove the two screws (not handy location) that hold the door latch/switch assembly so you can remove the switch. I did this BEFORE ordering so I could test the switch (it was charred) and verify the part needed. WATCH OUT - some ovens use a normally open an some a normally closed version of this switch - you have to get the right one. I checked several suppliers that were showing the WRONG switch for my model. PartSelect had it right. Once I received the switch I had it on and the oven installed and running in less than 30 miutes. Working fine since then...

Took the front panel off, played with the switch while it was plugged in to verify the switch was bad. I actually was able to tweak the switch just right to keep the microwave working while the part was being delivered. When it came it was just removing two small screws and replacing. Very easy.

I purchased the fuse and 3 door switches from PartSelect. Replaced the fuse first but that did not solve the problem. Then I replaced the 3 door switches and problem solved!! So fuse only cost $5.00 so glad I have a new fuse in there as well. To see how to replace door switches see videos on utube!!