JE1590SC01 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

remov cover to check voltage and found problem at the interlock switch ohm the switch and found it was open replace both switches it work fine now

unplugged power
removed main black cover.
located part WB24X10047 and replaced

Disassembly control panel and remove switch holder; test for micro switches for continuity. Holder had broken post on micro switch holder.

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

The first holder locker was shipped in a soft envelope and was damaged in shipping. I ordered a second holder locker with instructions to ship in a hard container and mentioned what happened to the first holder locker. The second holder locker was shipped also in a soft envelope and was received damaged.

I notified customer service and have yet to receive a response.

I now have the part on order with a local company.
Kenneth Files
(831) 688-0740

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

Removed cover
Disconnected capacitor from old magnetron
Removed old magnetron
Installed new part
Connected capacitor
Reinstalled cover

Replaced all 3 switches and Holder for all 3 switches. All is working great now.

Unscrewed the control panel (2 screws), lift up and let hang, with a plan screwdriver open bracket holding the switch, unplug 2 wires, replace with new switch, plug in the 2 wires, push switch back into bracket. Then slide on the control panel, put the 2 screws back. Easy fix.

Part just snapped into place and wires were reattached.

Phillips screws out of the side; torx screws out of the bottom/back and slide the cover off of the back. The light is not visible but not hard to find: on the top left side mounted on a black plastic base with 1 phillips screw & stud holds other side. You can tell what the base looks like from the new part. GE probably wants you to call them to make the $-ha. Stay clear of any capacitors (shock) or chips (short) & touch the chassis to ground or if a tech, wear a ground strap.

I went for the cheap things first. Ohmmeter showed one of the thermostats in the magnetron compartment was open. I ordered and replaced all three thermostats. Still no heat. I took the unit off the wall (aaarrgh!) and checked the oven cavity thermal cutout. It said 7 ohms. I tested by shorting the wires together, but still no heat. So, I ordered the magnetron and diode cable. When replacing the diode cable (be sure to discharge the big cap!) either I broke it, or it was already damaged. It came off in two pieces. The new diode cable was re-enforced with thick heat shrink tubing, to prevent such breaking. You need a very short screwdriver to replace the magnetron. Now, all fixed! ~$150. A new one lists for $2000, installed in the overhead. My wife thinks I am a genius.

I figured out the part number and ordered a new one. Luckily it was the right one and I just replaced the old broken ring. Very easy. Part came quickly.

Replaced the fuse. Result; did not fix the problem.

Replace the fuses