JE1590SC01 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Looked on line and found a you tube that said to check the door micro switches (there are three of them. Found one of the switches had an actuator that was stuck down. I got the actuator working but problem was still present. Another you tube showed how to repair the contacts in the switch and that solved the problem. however the plastic piece that holds the switches was broken and would not hold the switches securely. Ordered that piece and a new switch. Remove the vent plate on top (one phillips) and the control panel (one phillips). The switch holder is held in place with 2 phillips and is a little tricky to get it out and undo the wires. Once out, it's just a matter of putting the switches into the new holder and reinstalling it. Google the model number and the problem and there's virtually a you tube to repair ANYTHING.

Symptom: Terrible sparking coming from the right side of the microwave even with nothing in the microwave. The part that was behind the cover was the business end of what I learned was the magnetron,

Repair process: Without appliance repair experience I went onto Google and searched for parts for my model PEB1590DM2WW. I was able to find a great parts schematic on partselect.com. At first I ordered a magnetron and while waiting for the parts to arrive I also learned that the capacitor can also fail easily as described in the other install feedback on the partsselect website. So I ordered a capacitor just in case. These convection microwaves are around $600 new so a $80 in parts is not out of line for 8 years of service.
I installed the magnetron first and turned it on. sparking immediately continued so I quickly shut the unit off. After replacing the capacitor and letting it charge for several minutes before trying to start the microwave cycle was the issue. I choose to leave the replaced magnetron as the original unit was discolored and felt the replacement was inexpensive insurance. I also learned that if the wave guide (which is a plastic/metallic composite material) that covers the opening to the magnetron is burnt or has metal melted to it as mine did it will act similar to the microwave having metal inside the enclosure and will continue to spark and basically melt the wave guide further. Replacing the wave guide was very easy as well.

I am very thankful for the knowledge base and support available from Partselect.com as they made this repair possible on my own. Thank you partselect.com

Disassembled the front cover, found slow blow fuses, then replaced with microwave fuses 250V-20Amp. Utilized a few fuses to pin point the problem, Microwave functions all worked except the express feature, made an assumption after using a tester that it was the high voltage capacitor and the diode that attaches. Replaced both, plugged in and tested. Worked! reinstalled the unit. Sucessfull for the past month.

Took off plastic around inside the door , took broken latch off and put spring on new latch on plactic on and it works . ????

Traced problem to the door primary interlock microswitch.By the way this is the second time this switch has failed. Switch appears to fail after about 3 years. Replacing the lamp was bear.I have the SCA2000BCC03 advantium. It is almost impossible to replace the interior light. After removing from wall remove the case and the control panel disconnecting all of the wires. Gentley pull cavity outward giving you enough room to get an offset philips screwdriver on the single screw retaining the lamp. Its a bear but its possible to do and probably saves you $150 service charge. GE must have assembled the bulb unit before placing it into the unit. There is no simple way to replace the bulb. Maybe new units have easier access. My is 12 years old.

Everything worked on the display light inside worked but when you closed the door and set time it would start counting down but not heating nor would the turntable turn. Started reading troubleshooting chart and first thing I did was removed the cover and checked door switches and found primary door switch wasn't working so I ordered a new one installed it and it worked. Anyone doing this has to be very careful because of the stored energy in the capacitor is strong enough to kill.
My micro is only 2 years old so I was hoping it wasn't anything major.

I needed to remove the front fascia plate and remove the microwave from the cabinet. Then I had to remove the microwave cover. This entailed some difficulty because GE used special screw heads to discourage people from fixing their own appliances. Then, I had to find the bulb fixture and that also was difficult and not obvious.

I removed the main cover ( torx security bit required) and tested the magnetron, capacitor, diode and door interlock switches according to instructions found on the internet. The capacitor and diode tested good but the magnetron looked burnt and corroded on the tip. The magnetron I received was an exact replacement for the original. It was easy to replace the magnetron which arrived in 2 days standard shipping. I also cleaned the fan while I had access to the inside area. Hoping to get another 18 years use from the microwave!

The tray came within 5 days and I simply took it out of its well-packaged box and slipped it into my microwave. It is working just like new. I can't thank you all for being so punctual and reliable. better than having to buy a brand new microwave.

I just matched the prong in the turntable hole and coupler fit into the hole perfectly. All The Best.

Check with Digital meter all connections.Find a Thermostat open loop.This thermostat is near the Megatron .

I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL OF THE MICR0WAVE AND THEN REMOVED ONE SCREW TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL. rEMOVED OLD SWITCH. SNAPPED IN NEW SWITCH AND CONNECTED WIRE. REPLACED CONTROL PANEL AND UPPER PANEL.

The burned remnant of the coupler was a bit difficult to remove. I did so with a pliers and also used the pliers to clear out some burned fragments of the coupler. With a flashlight I determined that the slot for the coupler was now clear. I matched the configuration of the slot with that of the new coupler and it slid immediately into place with no difficulty whatever.

Removed back screws, pulled cabinet off from the rear, unplugged lamp on upper right side in front reattached two wires, replaced 1 screw to hold lamp in place, reinstalled cabinet and done.

Actually followed prior instructions on your site. Spot on.

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door