JDG3000W Jenn-Air Dryer - Instructions
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Broken Catch
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James from LARAMIE, WY
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
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hole in lint filter
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vernon from chowchilla, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
4 of 4 people
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Belt broke
Real easy I have resurrected my dryer may times so this was easy to replace the belt and idler pulley
Parts Used:
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jim from Grand Rapids, MI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
5 of 7 people
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drum slide worn out
removed front cover, lifted drum up with a clamp and replaced slides. Replaced front cover
Parts Used:
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Richard from GORHAM, ME
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
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Noise when running and motor stop. Motor bearing overheated.
Unplug dryer
Pick the top up at the front and swing up. Inside each side of the front is a screw to remove. Do not forget to unhook the door switch wires. Pull the drum. Push belt off as you remove the drum. Works better to reach in at the lower right and take the belt off of the tighener first.
After you clean out any lint in area unplug the wires from the motor and snap off the hold down clamp on the back bearing.
The blower needs to be released fromt he shaft. The snap ring in front of the blower needs to be taken off. This can be done with a screw driver by prying off the flat spot on the shaft. However, a snap ring pliers would be better. The front of the blower housing must come off as the blower must come off. There is a snap ring behind the blower that must come off also.
The biggest problem I had was removing the front motor bearing housing from the plastic blower housing. It is easy once you see that the front bearing housing is held in by four tabs in the plastic housing. By rotating the front bearing housing 90 degrees you will be able to pull it out.
From there just reverse your action. The belt went on ok. I found by putinng the belt on the drum and the motor drive pully first I was able to reach in an put the belt over the tighener.
Pick the top up at the front and swing up. Inside each side of the front is a screw to remove. Do not forget to unhook the door switch wires. Pull the drum. Push belt off as you remove the drum. Works better to reach in at the lower right and take the belt off of the tighener first.
After you clean out any lint in area unplug the wires from the motor and snap off the hold down clamp on the back bearing.
The blower needs to be released fromt he shaft. The snap ring in front of the blower needs to be taken off. This can be done with a screw driver by prying off the flat spot on the shaft. However, a snap ring pliers would be better. The front of the blower housing must come off as the blower must come off. There is a snap ring behind the blower that must come off also.
The biggest problem I had was removing the front motor bearing housing from the plastic blower housing. It is easy once you see that the front bearing housing is held in by four tabs in the plastic housing. By rotating the front bearing housing 90 degrees you will be able to pull it out.
From there just reverse your action. The belt went on ok. I found by putinng the belt on the drum and the motor drive pully first I was able to reach in an put the belt over the tighener.
Parts Used:
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Jeffrey from Rogers City, MI
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
5 of 7 people
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No heat...
Removed and replaced both the thermostat sensor and the ignitor. Tested thej dryer and it worked. Replaced the front panel and it was good to go.
Parts Used:
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Charles from Long Beach, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Socket set
5 of 7 people
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Door wasn't staying closed
popped up top of dryer -- With pliers squeezed clips on inside of latch - - with screw driver pryed latch out -- just pused new latch in.......... Thanks to parts select for sending part sooo fast.. wife was happy.. Thanks, Dale
Parts Used:
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Dale from Livingston, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
4 of 5 people
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Too much drying time, not hot enough
I removed the Drier Door and removed the Front Drier Panel exposing the Gas Valve & associated parts. I removed two (2) screws holding the Gas Valve Coils in place & replaced the 2 terminal coil, then replaced the screws, Front Cover & Drier Door. I liked the results so much, I ordered the other Gas Valve Coil and will replace it also when it arrives.
Good trouble shooting information.
Good trouble shooting information.
Parts Used:
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John from Floyd, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
4 of 5 people
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Dryer heat would go off and timer would not move. Dryer would continuously run
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chuck from smithtown, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 5 people
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My drier would start create heat,than stop heating after 8-10minutes.
After reading the many different common stories,I replaced both coils (m series).Very simply lifted up the top of driver,held by 2 snap springs and 2 lint vent screws.Removed front cover,2 screws and 2 bottom snaps,coils down on bottom left.r/r both coils,reinstalled covers and let there be heat!This website is a blessing!!
Parts Used:
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Tom from Schaumburg, IL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 5 people
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ignitor failed to ignite gas or would fail to after first ignition.
Watched youtube video to problem shoot. Cause determined to be coils bad. Searched web found Parts Select to be easiest site to deal with and had coils for best price. Followed instructions supplied with parts. Dryer works like new.
Parts Used:
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CHUCK from HARDIN, KY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 6 people
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Light Bulb
Using a flat-head screw driver, I removed the 1 screw from the small "door" on the back, upper right corner. Once the screw was removed, it allowed the door plate to "pop" open; exposing the old bulb. I removed the old bulb; replaced it with the new one. DONE!
Parts Used:
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Terri from Kingsland, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
6 of 12 people
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burnt out lightbulb for over 20 years
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Kathtleen from Bristol, CT
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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Heat up then gas flame shuts down after 5 or so minutes igniter glows again trying to reignite but no gas supply coming out of the tube.
I ordered the top 5 items that may cause this problem based on the troubleshooting guide presented by the technicians I found in youtube. I replaced the coils and that fixed the problem. The coils are the first to go out according to techs, but I have the other parts just in case I may need them later on. My Maytag dryer which is over 19 years old is alive and working again. The coils are accessible from the bottom access panel secured by 2 nut screws, unplug the dryer first, then the coils are secured by a bracket with 2 small philips head screw, I used a stubby philips screw driver to remove the bracket, undo the 2 electrical connectors on the coils one with 2 prongs and the other with 3 prongs. Put the new coils attached the electrical connectors and secured them with the bracket. Checked for any loose wiring ensuring connectors are secured in place, then test run the dryer with the panel off so you can see the if the flame stays on, if you run the dryer without wet clothes the flame may stop after 15 or so minutes. It is better to test run the dryer with wet clothes just like when your drying fresh washed and wringed clothes. It was really easy, good luck!
Parts Used:
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Jodel from SAN DIEGO, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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No Problem, Old filter had seen better days.
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Ruth V from Westminster, CO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
4 of 6 people
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