JCS968SK5SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Oven door must be removed briefly while old false bottom is slid out and replaced with new one. Oven door is easily replaced and oven is like new.

I pulled out the drawer and inserted the new support. This one inserts into the back of the drawer as opposed to the sides. I had ordered two of the replacements even though I only needed one and decided to replace both. I think it was a good move as the drawer works better than when we first got it. Just one simple screw made it complete.

Very easy to remove the parts and to reassemble

I'm well past ninety and my sweet daughter inserted the tiny prongs. I was delighted to find a place that had the bulbs. Thank goodness for the internet ! (I'm not too old for that)

Remove and unplug the control panel. Remove four 1/4 in screws securing the metal panel to which the four rangetop controls are mounted. Unscrew the affected control, be careful to note the wiring layout on the control. Reassemble and test test out all functions.

Took the oven door off and removed the inner door panel, put new glass assembly part in and reassembled. The hard part was getting the door hinges locked back into place.

I checked various sites on the net and decided that the temperature sensor was the problem. The GE price for the replacement part was about $105, most of the other sites offered the sensor in the $70 range. PartSelect $12.95 When the part arrived, I removed a small self taping screw, pulled the high temperature wire connector into the oven space, disconnected the quick disconnect fitting, attached the new temperature sensor, pushed the connecting wire into its hole, replaced the screw and that was it. I probably saved about $200 in parts and labor over what a local repairman would have charged. Oh yes!! I first disconnected the power at the breaker box. Very important.

Use screwdriver to pull down tab on both hinges. Good hind on door and as you lower to full open door will come off. Pull old bottom, insert new bottom and put door back in slots. Close and then reopen to first position and push tabs back up to lock position

Took a picture of the old heating element to make sure that when I replaced the new element the wires were in the exact location as before.

This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported.
- works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.

Just note the wire colors and match them where they go on the new control, remove and replace 7 screws and a zip tie and I was done.

recieved part the next day. looked different but I followed instructions and the part worked perfect.

Part WB30T10126 Triple Haliant Element-12 Inch was returned to you under Returns Reference 15682540. Mailed by USPS Tracking #9505 8161 4647 1005 7628 41. According to USPS, it arrived at your location Friday, Jan. 15, 2021 @ 10:49 AM. Please advise. Thank you, William Deal

Sensor is in rear and on top ov oven. What could be a 10" job took 45". My problem was the oven door was diffinately in the way. Also I wear bifocals which makes me tilt head to see nuts. I felt like a contortionist. HINT: remove door and give yourself some room to work.

My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),red] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.