JCGB750EEF2ES General Electric Range - Instructions

Turned off gas, then lifted up the burner cover and removed the old valve using a screw driver to loosen the clamp. I also had to remove the face plate using a socket set (4 screws). I didn't align the valve using the existing valves as a guide and also didn't get the clamp tight enough. So I re-aligned the valve to match the other valves and also tighten the clamp enough as best I could to prevent gas from leaking.

Tested for power to the igniter, (had power) so I knew it must have been the igniter that had failed. Removed two screws that held the shield in place, remove two screws that hold the igniter and disconnect the plug form the igniter, replace with new igniter.

In my case it was the lower burner so I unplugged oven and turned gas off.
Then I removed the bottom drawer, and the lower burner cover.
Next unplug Oven Igniter, found where drawer existed.
Removed 2 screws attaching Igniter using nutdriver
Placed new Igniter on
Plug Igniter in and tested oven
Replace burner cover and drawer


This was much easier then what I went through with a repair man the first time around. These Igniter are designed for certain model stoves and are not interchangable with other model stoves!!!

I first took out the screw which held the bottom plate for the oven. then took the screws off the igniter unhooked the wires , took the new igniter hooked up the wires then put the screws back in put the bottom plate back in and turned the oven on to test it and it worked great.

I let my brother do the actual installation but it only look about 15 min. I did look at the website of the appliance manufacturer first and then came to this website. The cost of the part I needed was almost half as much as the other site. When I saw that someone with the same oven model number and had the same problem and was able to fix it, I decided to order here. It came quickly and my oven now works.

In general, other repair stories on this site collectively give a good description of the repair process. My words concern the decision that has to be made as to which element is bad - igniter or gas valve. To reach a conclusion about this question, I was comforted by the fact that I could measure the AC electric current through the gas valve which then let me decide that my problem was in the igniter. Since the circuit is a simple series with three elements, thermostat, igniter, and valve and the resistance of the valve unit was 1.0 to 1.2 ohms (per GE range equipment instruction which came with the range) by measuring the AC volts across the valve, I found (by dividing the volts AC across the gas valve (2.3 volts) by the resistance of the valve mechanism (1.0 ohms) that my old igniter was only supplying 2.3 AC amperes (instruction sheet states 2.9 amps. is needed to actuate the valve and further while heating of the oven is occurring the valve AC current will raise to 3.2 to 3.6 amps.). At 2.3 amps. the igniter will glow at a yellow color but will not actuate the valve. When you replace the old igniter with a new one you will enjoy to measure voltage across the gas valve once again and discover that the voltage rises to 2.9 volts and that the gas turns on and the heater tube gas is ignited.

Too easy a five year old could do it

First I removed the racks and oven bottom panel. Then I took out the two screws holding the ignighter unplugged the wire connection and removed the old ignighter, compared the old with the new one mounted it back with the two screws plugged it back in. Job finished in 15 minutes and oven back working again.

Unplugged the stove and pulled it out from the wall. Took the metal shield off the back of stove held by 2 screws. Unplugged the Molex connector for the igniter. unscrewed the round metal shield covering the opening where the igniter wires run to the back of the stove. Removed the 2 screws that held igniter bracket to the burner. Next, I pulled the wires and Molex connector through the opening. Installed new igniter in the reverse order. Be very careful with new igniter as they are very fragile and can break easily.

Removed the screws that held the shield in place. Then unplugged the igniter and removed the 2 screws that hold igniter in place. I had to cut the connector off the new igniter and wire nut the old connector on because of a different connector.
I then put everything back together and ooolaalaa, it worked!!!!!!!

Thanks for the quick service,
Tom

I thought I was being a total girl and was afraid of fixing my oven myself, but when it took forever to get my landlord to come over and fix my oven I ordered the part, got it in three days, followed the directions online and fixed it myself! Easy, easy! Turned off the electric, switched off the gas, unscrewed 2 bolts, unplugged the old switch, screwed in the new switch, replugged it and turned on the stove. Roasted a chicken and baked bread within minutes!

Removed oven racks, removed lower oven shelf panel by using a flathead screwdriver and removed two screws on the back edge of the panel. Removed flat style ignitor (two hex head screws)from the gas burner tube using a 3/16 nutdriver. Disconnected two wires from the ignitor. Removed the two pin connector from the new ignitor, stripped the insulation to expose about a 1/4 inch of bare wire at the ends of the wire where the connector was removed. Installed the ignitor to the gas burner tube using the 3/16 hexhead screws. Connected the wires using porcelain wire nuts. Re-installed the lower oven shelf panel, flathead screws and the oven racks. Oven worked as advertised.

I deturmined that the flame starter was not pulling enough amps to open the gas valve (safety valve) . pulled two hand screws and removed floor of oven exposing the flame bar and flame starter. removed two screws on flame starter. removed lower pan drawer and disconected the electrical plug for flame starter. replaced in reverse order. easy.

I found that it was a little easier to pull out the stove to do the electrical connections. First I pulled out the stove being very careful not to bend the gas line. I pulled out the wires and disconnected them. I removed the 2 screws that hold the igniter and compared it to the new one it matched. I hooked it back up with the 2 screws then did the wire connections pushed the stove back carefully and tested the new igniter it worked like new no more microwave dinners thanks parts select .com

When this happens the plunger switch has to be replaced. This is a small plug like piece that has 4 plug in wires.

So you first unplug the range from the wall outlet. Then remove the oven door off the hinges ( see owners manual for removal ) then you take the right side panel off and there you will see the plunger switch. Before removing the old switch make sure you plug the new one in exactly like the old one. I laid the old one next to the new one and plug them in one at a time. Its a little tricky unplugging them . After a few tries I figured it out. You have to use your thumb and finger and press and pull up by where the wire plugs in. Before putting back together you may want to test the new switch. Plug range back in wall outlet push the black piece that sticks out from switch and if the oven light goes out its fixed. Unplug from wall while reassembling side panel and door. I can say this do it yourself saves a lot of money not having a repairman fix it.