JCB2388GRQ Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

The whole job went smoothly,just the way others have described it. Unfortunatlly the water valve was not the problem. The problem was that ice had formed where the water enter's the tray . and therefore could not get into the ice forming area and just spilled into the refrigerator. I removed the ice maker(2 screws and cable connector.) let the ice melt and reconnected all is well again.

Maytag wide by side refrigerators tend to eat these parts about once a year, and this is my third assy so the replacement went very fast. When we used the Maytag warranty they replaced this part about 6 times, after they exchanged the refrigerator. No major disassembly is required, drop the plastic after removing a few screws, plug in the assy, and you are good to go, no more frozen food in the refer. The only tricky part is getting the clips to release so you can slide the plastic cover forward, but after a while they break off and it is easier to remove.

removed old ice maker by taking out a couple of screws in the back of freezer,when new ice maker arrived i saw that it didn't have the same hose apparatus as old one so I easily took apart old one then took apart new one and switched them out-very-- easily done for a 61 yr old lady I might add-- also had to reinstall ice maker arm off old ice maker as new one does not come with one Then installed new ice maker in freezer I am very very pleased,sure saved a lot of money doing it my self

First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

I used a nutdriver to unscrew the four bold, I disconnect the defrost heater assembly, I used boil water to unfreeze where the heater assembly hook, then I unclip the bottom I remove it and slide the new one the same way and replaace those two covers and connect the fridge back and it work like a charm. Thanks again Partselect. I save a bundle money and waiting time....

I removed the cover and unplugged the heater unit and thermostat. I then checked the resistance of the unit. The unit was bad. I then replaced the unit.
This was a very simple repair.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Very easy to order from parts select. Took seconds to replace.

1.Pulled all ther baskets and shelves out of freezer and unplugged unit.
2. Using a nut driver remove screws holding coil covers in place on the back wall.
3.Use a hair dryer to fully defrost the coil in the freezer allowing you to unplug the electrical connector and take the thermastat control switch off the cooling tube.
4. Pull out aluminum pin between coils holding heater coil in place on right side.
5. Remove black foam insert on right side to allow removal of coil wires
6. reverese to reinstall
* Note this heater replacemnet coil did not fix my problem. I consulted a Maytag Repairman who told me to relace it..well he was wrong so I further researched the problem and found my problem was the ADCB inside the refrigarator. I strongly suggest you replace this part first and wait 8-12 hours and recheck the condensor coil. Some frosting will occur but tha ADC ( automatic defrost control board will cause the defrost heater to come on at all diffrent times according to your usage of the appliance. total cost was under 100.00 to replace the heater coil and ADCB. A bargin compared to the $400-$500 the Maytag guy would charge to do the same.

Remove 1 screw under ice maker. Gently pull downwards to unhook ice maker. Disconnected 4 pin wire connector. Remove and set aside the cover and wire loop you will need on new ice maker. Reverse the steps to install new maker. Once new ice maker is installed you will have to wait 2-4 hours for ice. There is a thermostat that will need to reach 10 degrees F to operate.

I took out the bottom two food baskets and one shelf. Removed two screws with a 1/4" nut driver. Then took two screws of the cooling element of which the defrost element was attached underneath. Disconnected two plugs and replaced the new part. The easiest repair I have ever done.

I turned off the fridge. Used a nut driver to remove panel and defrosted coils with a hair dryer. Undid the old assembly and plugged in the new one, put panel back on and turned fridge back on. I have replaced the Adaptive Defrost Timer and the Defrost Heater and Thermostat Assembly.

After checking the water valves ordered new ice maker. received the part three days after ordering! Clearing out food, removing the old one and installing the new unit took under 15 minutes. Everything went fine.

Part received was what I needed. There was one issue--the 'feed' opening to receive water and direct it into the ice tray was a side feed and what I needed was a back feed. That means I had to do some exchanging of parts to make it work. That exercise took more time that the actual installation.