JCAP760BM2BB General Electric Range - Instructions

My wife could open and close the drawer without too much difficulty, but occasionally, it would not close properly and she would have to empty the contents do could alaign it properly to close. The last time she was talking about buying a whole new drawer. I asked her what the part looked like, as I never to fight with it. I went online and found the part for $1.16 plus shipping at $8 plus. It was well worth the time and effort, and I now have a happy wife. Paul Parker

unscrewed broken end cap, removed from handle and replaced the new end cap

After searching the internet for a cause for the burner not getting hot it looked as though it was the burner switch. I ordered the switch and installed it. Behold it still did not work. I then ordered the burner, installed it and it worked. So I had a 50/50 chance as to which part was the problem. This was my first stove repair and I found it easy to do. Finding something to hold up the ceramic cooktop took the most time. I cut a piece of wood to prop it up while I replaced the burner.

Pull stove out from the wall unplug it remove the old switches and replaced them withe new one. they work just fine.

When I got the part I removed the tin cover (two screws)on the back of the range. I removed the sensor by removing the two screws inside the oven and pulled out the sensor. taking the instructions advise, I checked the sensor with my ohm meter and although it read 1.1 ohms as compared with the recommended 1.09 ohms at room temperature in the instructions, went ahead and changed the unit. The connector did not fit my particular model so I spliced the wiring and using the two included wire nuts made the connection. I reinstalled the sensor, reattached the gas line, plugged it in and tried the oven before I put it back in place. The oven works great now and it was super easy.

Replace control switch

Difficulty was in determining the right model number and part number of a switch. Noted that the left front burner came on when the switch for the left back burner was turned on. By inspection I found the left front burner switch had become faulty by actually hearing an electric arc in the switch and smelling the oder in the switch. With help from the person I called I was able to determine that the Model Number on the actual stove was wrong. It had an extra 0 between the W and F which she said was a common error in the GE model number. I then gave the switch number I found on the switch to the contact person and she was able to verify the right part number. It was relatively easy to replace the switch by taking off the back upper plate then taking off two screws that held the switch to the stove. The part came quite quickly once ordered. Sears repair wanted $75 just to diagnose then the cost of the part. I got the switch for $69.

First, the order was shipped and delivered immediately. The model number had a wider range to select from and I had to guess which was the better fit. Other then that the new handle installation was a snap. Thank you and we would surely order from your company again.

Pull door from oven and place on flat work surface. Remove bottom screws then the top screws and separate the two halves of the door . Remove broken door handles and replace reassemble door and place back on oven. The hardest thing was to clean the grease out of the inside of the door and get the glass clean to reassemble the door.

Removed door from oven. Removed all side screws and pulled front assembly from door. Discarded old screws and broken plastic pieces. Put old handle in new end caps and lined them up with screw entry holes. It took 2 people to hold the door up while pressing in the screws to enter the new plastic receivers on the end caps. A pretty easy fix.

repair was easy and the video was very good. My only problem, I had to go buy a tool, I did not have a nut driver.

The reason the brackets didn't go on to the handle far enough was there was a molding defect inside one of the brackets. After alot of scraping at the inside of the bracket and lightly tapping with a soft hammer I was able to get the defective bracket on so that the holes lined up to the mounting plate. As for the extra nipples I had two options. Either cut the nipples off or drill some holes in the metal plate that the brackets attach to. I chose the latter. I had to attach the brackets to the plate with extra long screws, reach in under the bracket with a scribe and mark the nipple location on the plate. Then I removed the handle and drilled two holes for each bracket. After some minor adjustments to the holes I was able to attach both brackets and reassemble the oven door.

Very detailed repair instructions on internet made installation of new end caps a job not needing a professioal.

removed the broken parts and screwed on the new parts.