JCAP760BM1BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Repair was basically simple. Remove 6 screws holding door facing on door, remove one screw holding handle end caps in place. Then reverse the operation installing handle end caps. The problem I had was that the new a end caps had different dimensions than the old ones and the handle wouldn't slip into them. Had to carve away material inside the new caps with an exacto knife in order to fit the handle. The result was a 15 minute job took well over an hour

removed the top section on stove and removed the wires off swtitch and put on new one then put new switch in

verified switch operation , checked continuity of burner element found open ordered new part and installed next day
after extremely fast
service from partselect thank you

Isolated to control switch.

Replaced

Removed door from oven. Removed all side screws and pulled front assembly from door. Discarded old screws and broken plastic pieces. Put old handle in new end caps and lined them up with screw entry holes. It took 2 people to hold the door up while pressing in the screws to enter the new plastic receivers on the end caps. A pretty easy fix.

After searching the internet for a cause for the burner not getting hot it looked as though it was the burner switch. I ordered the switch and installed it. Behold it still did not work. I then ordered the burner, installed it and it worked. So I had a 50/50 chance as to which part was the problem. This was my first stove repair and I found it easy to do. Finding something to hold up the ceramic cooktop took the most time. I cut a piece of wood to prop it up while I replaced the burner.

Pull stove out from the wall unplug it remove the old switches and replaced them withe new one. they work just fine.

Replace control switch

When I got the part I removed the tin cover (two screws)on the back of the range. I removed the sensor by removing the two screws inside the oven and pulled out the sensor. taking the instructions advise, I checked the sensor with my ohm meter and although it read 1.1 ohms as compared with the recommended 1.09 ohms at room temperature in the instructions, went ahead and changed the unit. The connector did not fit my particular model so I spliced the wiring and using the two included wire nuts made the connection. I reinstalled the sensor, reattached the gas line, plugged it in and tried the oven before I put it back in place. The oven works great now and it was super easy.

Difficulty was in determining the right model number and part number of a switch. Noted that the left front burner came on when the switch for the left back burner was turned on. By inspection I found the left front burner switch had become faulty by actually hearing an electric arc in the switch and smelling the oder in the switch. With help from the person I called I was able to determine that the Model Number on the actual stove was wrong. It had an extra 0 between the W and F which she said was a common error in the GE model number. I then gave the switch number I found on the switch to the contact person and she was able to verify the right part number. It was relatively easy to replace the switch by taking off the back upper plate then taking off two screws that held the switch to the stove. The part came quite quickly once ordered. Sears repair wanted $75 just to diagnose then the cost of the part. I got the switch for $69.

Parts arrived in record time and the right parts. The detailed diagram was so helpful in finding exactly the part I needed to order. Was so easy my girlfriend with no mechanical or electrical experience completely helped me through the entire project. She secured the electrical breaker to the range, and I had the top back to the oven removed. I showed her how the little white box simply slides off the lens cover, then replaced the new one in the holes and slide it back on. Secured the back and she turned on the breaker back on...and all lights work. Thanks for making this project easy, simple and quick.

The video was very helpful.Very easey repair

Pull knob. Pull wires. Pull two screws. Replace switch

Using a torx screwdriver, I removed the old handle bracket. I had to be careful not to lose a metal spacer that went between the back of the door front panel and the back of the inside door panel. With the door in full open position, I was able to hold this spacer in my thumb and fore finger while I removed the screw. The broken portion of the handle bracket fell to the floor. With the old handle removed, I placed the screw through a hole in the inside panel, through the spacer and through a hole in the front panel. While holding the front pull bar in the right handle bracket, I placed the new bracket on the bar holding it in position on the door and attaching the screw. Easy peasy!

This repair was super easy. I removed the two screws holding the oven sensor in place, pulled the sensor from the oven wall to expose the two wires attached to the sensor cut and spliced in the new sensor as per instructions. The supplied wiring kit made this splice very easy. I then reinserted the wires and sensor from the oven wall, put the screws back in place tested the oven. Oven now works like new and I got bonus points from a happy wife!