JBP15BJB General Electric Range - Instructions

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Cut 4 inch’s off the new terminal block wires then using my wire strippers stripped 1/2 inch off the ends , the old terminal block wires I stripped 1/2 inch at the ends using a wire nuts on both wires and electrical tape connected the terminal block to the stove plugged the new burner in and the burner worked 100%.

This cooking element has four electrical connections to the stove.
YouTube videos show connecting the coils from inside the oven.
That does not work.
One of the electrical connection is made too short to pull through the back of the stove; as shown in the videos.
Be SURE to Trip the circuit breaker to the stove before starting..
The "easy" way is to pull the stove from the wall and open up the back panels. Then disconnect all 4 electrical connectors from the bad element. Unbolt and disconnect the old element from the stove.
Install and bolt on the new elements. Attach the electrical connectors in the back. Reset the circuit breaker and test the coils to see they light up. If OK, trip the circuit breaker and reinstall the back panels.
Push the stove back to wall and energize the circuit breaker.

the instructions given for this part were not 100 % accurate, our oven door required multiple, dis assembly and was unable to complete the task, local handy men refused to come to assist since the job was already started, it appears I will now need to buy a new oven , I was disapointed in the help because had we known we had the more diffcilult oven, would not have attempted, I did give the correct model and serial number to the person when discussing this part

My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),red] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

Very was ti replace racks and knobs. Very fast mail service

Remove the draw from the stove. Then unscrew two Phillips Head screws ( one on each side). Remove the old gliders. Slip in the new gliders. Screw the two phillis head screws back in. Make sure when you put the drawer back in the stove that you lift the front of the drawer up enough that the lower portion of the new glider is engaged on the side rail of the oven drawer space.

REMOVE TWO TORX HEAD SCREWS AT TOP OF INNER DOOR
PANEL. THEN REMOVE TWO ALIGNMENT SLEEVES THAT WERE
HELD WITH SHEET METAL SCREWS AND DISCARD BOTH THE SCREWS (SHEET METAL) AND THE SLEEVES. ALIGN TWO SMALL PINS ON EITHER SIDE OF OUTER DOOR PANEL AND ATTACH WITH THE TORX HEAD SCREWS(MAY WANT TO USE A DRILL IF YOU HAVE THE CORRECT TORX BIT). NEW HANDLE ONE PIECE BETTER DESIGN... WIFE LOVES IT.

I first unplugged the stove (alternatively, shut off the breaker). I unscrewed the terminal block screw from the stove top (after removing the stove element and burner bowl). I got in behind and removed the six screws in the sheet metal panel. Removed the panel. Unplugged the terminal block wires for each unit, one at a time, and immediately plugged in the new unit wires (after threading the wires up under the control panel). Wire polarity doesn't matter. Secured the panel temporarily with a couple of screws. Replaced the burner bowls and stove elements in the new terminal blocks. Plugged in the stove and tried each unit. Worked great! Secured the remaining screws in the rear panel and moved the stove back into place. Thanks so much!

Only instructions I have has nothing to do with installation. But I'd like to suggest that you find a better shipping method. Placed my order on Feb. 7, received message later same day that it'd shipped. I didn't receive it until Feb. 16th -- very poor delivery service.

I just follow Steve's Installation Vidio. My range works.
Thanks Steve

Removed the old element and burner bowls and replaced them with the new ones! No screws, no tools needed. PartSelect's prices are cheaper than any other place on the Internet and they shipped me genuine replacement parts, not some 3rd party no-name brand. Also, shipping took less than 2 days! I am thoroughly impressed.

popped out the remainder of old lens, then pushed in new ones and slipped on plugs.

Replaced the terminal block and used hi-temp wire connectors to place the new part into the circuit.