JBC17G4R2 General Electric Range - Instructions

I simply replaced the female part of the plug that the coil plugs in to. I figured this would do the job. I replaced the part,

I followed the instructions given to me in the package and all went well. I cut the old wires off the burnt terminal block, stripped the wires, installed the wire nuts with the shrink rap, installed the new terminal block and burner. The new burner is working great! Thanks

Took off the door, took out the two screws in the back of the element. Then pulled the element forward, then removed the two wires. Then put it all back together with the new element.

Piece of cake

Turned off power to the oven at the circuit breaker. Pulled the old heating element from the back lower wall of the oven. Noted the position of the wires (right terminal attached to the red wire, left to the black wire). Removed small bolts holding the element to the wires using pliers. Attached the new element using screw driver. New element came with screws, not bolts. Pushed the element back into place and restored power. Tested to make sure everything worked. Everything works and I ran an oven cleaning cycle. Noticed that indicator light above the temperature selctor is always on now even when oven is in the OFF position. Not sure if that's related to the change or to the oven cleaning cycle I ran. In any case, oven seems to work normally.

Gasket sent did not match the profile of the original. Only after trimming off two long edges of the gasket did it come close to matching the original. I would not recommend using this replacement gasket for this oven model. 1-Remove door. 2-Loosen the 2 oven box attachment nuts on the back of the oven. (loosen only, about 3/8") 3-slide the oven box toward the front of the oven. 4-remove old gasket, and insert new. 5-Retighten 2 oven box attachment nuts. 6-Reinstall door. Took especially long because of incorrect gasket. Deep well socket required to loosen oven box attachment nuts. Recommend two people to do, one in back, for attachment nut and one in front to keep gasket in place while tightning nuts.

Unplugged the range, took old elements out, put new ones in. Couldn't have been easier and for the total cost of about $60; I have a working oven again. A LOT cheaper than a new $600 range!!

Hi, First unplug appliance ,remove the oven door by pulling it up from the hinges, giving room to work deep inside , remove the two screws that hold the element in place. then pull the element out carefully not to stress the wires and replace the element . Note after all is done test with an oven thermometor :)

First I disconnected the power. Then I removed the burner element and drip pan. Using the screwdriver I removed the single screw that holds the terminal block in place. I then cut the 2 wires to the old terminal block. I connected the wires of the new block to the existing wires using the supplied wire nuts. Next I slipped the supplied heat shrink tubing over the wire nut and wires and using the heat gun I applied heat to the shrink wrap. Finally I reinstalled the new terminal block using the old screw and re-installed the drip pan and burner. I repeated the procedure for 2 other burners that were exhibiting the same problem. All work perfectly.

removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.

The very first thing we did was turned the circuit breaker off and unplugged the range.
My husband removed the back panel and unplugged the switch. Drew a diaghram of the color coded wires. When we received the new one he broke the extension bar off to fit the knob, plugged it in and we were back in business. It was very easy for my husband as he is a mechanic (millwright). However, if you are mechanically inclined it is an easy fix.

At 76 I no longer do my repairs so I asked my daughter's friend to do it for me.

A very easy fix-Unplug stove, remove back plate, remove non-working element and drip pan, unscrew terminal plug and push it through to back of unit to have room to work, cut wires to old terminal plug approx 4" from plug, inspect remaining wires for damage and if all is OK, strip old wires and wires of new plug approx 1/2", twist together and cap with wire nuts, cover with shrink wrap and warm with heat gun, push newly replaced terminal plug back into stove top, screw to terminal plug holder, replace back plate, plug in and replace drip pan and NEW element. Worked like a charm!

took cover off back of stove. Removed two screws and wires that were attached to the element. Removed old element and installed new element. An easy repair.

This range is about 30 years old and I was thrilled to still be able to get the bake element, which burned out about a month ago. I was doing research to buy a new stove when a cousin, from out of town, called to say they were going to visit the following week. No time now to get a new one installed. "partselect.com" was the fastest way. THANK YOU!

First off, I want you to know I'm an obese 56-year female without tools. But, I knew where to borrow those.

I first shut the power off to the range. I then disconnected the 2 screws that hold the element and pulled it out to reveal the 2 screws which connected the wires. I unscrewed those and removed the bake element. I double checked the stove model and bake element part # at the GE website and ordered it from "Partselect.com". It came in about 3 days. I then reversed the order of the above and it was done.

Here are some challenges I encountered..
1) The oven door was in the way making it uncomfortabe to get to the back of the stove.
2) Those $#%& screws are so short I kept dropping them.
3) The wires in the back bend easily. Be careful.

That's about it. It was a pill but not a real problem. It sure beat buying a new range before I've decided on which one to buy.