JB855DP2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Once I opened up the back of the range, the sensor wires where there and burnt just like your info said. One nut to take off in the oven and the sensor came right out and the new one went right in. The oven works great, cooked the turkey today. The worst part of the repare was the cleaning behind and under the range, it hasn't moved since it was put in 6 years ago. Very pleased with PS.

Disconnected power supply. Removed damaged element by releasing retainer clips and unplugging wire contacts. Replaced with new element.

Really easy fix. Unplug oven. With a 5/16 nut driver take the 5 screws out of the center long tin cover and remove. Unplug little white temperature sensor plug located between broil heating element. Open oven door and remove one screw holding temp. sensor using same nut driver and simply pull out old sensor. Install new sensor. It's that easy. No more f2 been working like a champ!!!

Changed out the burner with a new replacement and it still didn't work. The socket on the old burner had a burn mark on it. The infinite switch operated sloppy not crisp like the other burners.Ordered a replacement online. Moved the range away from wall and cabinet and shut off electric at panel box. Removed upper back panel. removed switch knob and 2 screws holding switch. Compared electrical connections of both switches and saw that they were different. Read instructions which were included with new switch and found diagram for connecting old lead to new lead correctly. After all leads were connected, remounted new switch powered up and tested OK.

I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .

turned oven off, pulled oven out from wall, removed back of oven, unscrewed sensor from oven replaced with new sensor, put back on, turned power to oven on, tried oven at 425, my temp. gage and the oven temp matched. a very easy fix.

Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a champ. Took 5 minutes.

Identified part and part # using schematic found on GE website, contacted PartSelect and confirmed part number, ordered and paid for part. Two days later I recieved part. Unplugged stove, removed two screws on bottom side of front panel and two on top back of same panel, pulled panel forward, pulled the control knob off, removed two small screws that hold the control switch in place, situated new control switch next to bad switch and removed one wire at the time from the bad switch and connected to the same terminal on the new switch. Put everything back together and Bingo, works like a new one. Thanks PartSelect for the friendly, personal phone service, the fast shipment and competitive pricing on my part.

Parts arrived in record time and the right parts. The detailed diagram was so helpful in finding exactly the part I needed to order. Was so easy my girlfriend with no mechanical or electrical experience completely helped me through the entire project. She secured the electrical breaker to the range, and I had the top back to the oven removed. I showed her how the little white box simply slides off the lens cover, then replaced the new one in the holes and slide it back on. Secured the back and she turned on the breaker back on...and all lights work. Thanks for making this project easy, simple and quick.

Shut off power to oven. Removed upper oven door and cooking racks. Removed 2, 1/4" bolt, pulled element away from oven back wall and unplugged the 2 wires that went into the heating element and removed the element. Reinstalled the new element by plugging in the 2 wires to the element, pushing the wires back through the back of the oven and reinstalled the 2, 1/4" bolts. Reinstalled the cooking racks and oven door. The complete from start to finish time took about 15 minutes.

Replaced the Oven light housing. Unscrewed the two screws that hold the housing in place. Pulled out the housing and disconnected the wire tabs from the light housing tabs. Slid the wire tabs onto the tabs of the new light housing fixture. (Each tab is fitted to the tab in goes on so they can not be mixed up) Pushed the housing fixture back into place and screwed the housing into place.

Pulled the top back panel off, pulled off burner control knob, removed 2 screws which released switch, removed 5 wires from switch and connected them to new switch (pulled off faily easily). Reconnected the 2 screws to range and pushed knob back on. Replaced panel and reconnect the electric. Now works as it should.

Unplugged the stove, removed the back control cover, removed the Element Control Knob on front, removed the two screws holding the control in place, pull one wire of old control and connected to the new control - one at a time to ensure proper placement, re-attached the screws, control knob, back cover, plugged in stove, and repairs were completed in less then 15 minutes for both controls.

Used star screw driver to take door apart used socket set to unscrew handle screws. Installed new handle. Handle fit perfectly.

I feel like Macho Mom. I called in the repair guy since I was afraid of dealing with the gas. HE repaired one item but could tell I was comfortable fixing things and pointed out that the gasket was brittle and would cause major problems if not replaced. Took longer to order the part than do the repair, don't know what I was afraid of!