JB620DF1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven temperature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.

I just followed the instructions on the link provided with the part

1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and discard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!

This door required a lot more screws to be removed in order to remove the inside window assembly. I counted a total of 19 screws. That is why the estimated time is 30-60 minutes.

- remove door from range following the basic guide to removing any range door.
- place door on work surface with the outside facing down.
- remove three 1/4 socket screws from bottom and two star screws on top.
- Flip door over, remove outer door panel and set aside.
- There will be a separate pane of glass that needs to be removed. Remove 1/4 socket screws holding glass and set aside.
- Slide door over your work surface edge so you can remove the star screws holding the door hinges (from underneath). You could flip the door over but the door would have to be flipped back once the hinges were removed.
- Remove the remaining 1/4 screws holding the aluminum shielding.
- Remove the shielding being careful not to disturb the insulation around the window.
- Remove the damaged window. Take note of the writing and orientation on the aluminum window frame. (upper right if hinges were on the bottom)
- Set the new window in its place.
- Reverse the process by replacing the aluminum shield, hinges, than internal glass pane.
- Set outer door on top and holding everything together, flip door.
- Tighten the two star screws on top and the three 1/4 socket screws on the bottom.
- Replace door. Don't forget to lift up those hinge tabs before trying to close the door.
All done. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.

took off cover, pulled all wires off switch, pushed wires on new switch, put cover back on. Whalaa..

1.) I removed the old oven door gasket by taking out the ends of the gasket out of the bottom of the oven door first.
2.) Pry up on each one of the retainer clips, they easily pop out of their slots.
3.) Work your way around the oven door gasket.
4.) If any remain stuck you can just wiggle the clip around and it should pop out of each hole. If need be you could use pliers, but I did not need to.
5.) Take your new gasket, it should already have new clips, so you can throw away the old ones.
6.) Work your way around the oven door making sure the clips are nicely seated.
7.) Finish off by inserting the ends back into the 2 holes on each side of the bottom of the oven door, I just used a small spoon to make sure the tops were nicely placed in.
8.) If your gasket needs to compress, you can close the oven door and lock it that should hold it in place and compress it.
9.) All done!

Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.

Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.

Red Light Off

After receiving the new swith from part select in less than four days with surface mail as they promised, it took me less than five minutes to replace the new swith with the old one. The only tools that I needed were A) a 5/16 nut driver to remove the back panel in order to get an access to the swith.B) a phillips screw driver to remove the swith assembley from the front panel.

I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)

I am not the handiest person in the world, and this repair was easy even for me. If you suspect that the temperature sensor is the problem, do yourself a favor and buy this inexpensive replacement part and install it yourself prior to calling a professional who will charge a service fee just for checking it out. Pull your oven out from the wall so you can access the back. Unscrew the small nuts on the back to remove the sheet metal cover. Find the wire that goes to the sensor and unplug the plastic coupling. In the oven, unscrew the one nut that secures the sensor to the back wall of the oven. Pull the broken sensor out and replace it with the new sensor. Feed the wire through to the back and plug the new sensor into the same wire that was just disconnected. Reinstall all of the nuts. Do a "test cook" on some frozen food to ensure that the temperature seems correct (i.e., does it cook as expected in the recommended amount of time). The actual repair takes less than five minutes. I put "30-60 minutes" to account for unplugging the oven, pulling it out, removing the screws, replacing the screws, pushing it back in, and testing the temperature.

Replaced control panel after removing original control panel facing with heat gun and Wala

Consult the instruction guide that comes with the new part. Excluding doing some cleaning while things were apart, the operation took about 20minutes. 1. Open the oven door all the way. 2. Pull back the hinge latch on each hinge. 3. Close the door partially (about broil position). 4. Remove door by pulling so that hinges com out of the slots. 5. Carefully set door face down on a table so that inside of door faces up. 6. With a Torx driver, remove 2 screws at upper part of inside of door. 7. With a nut driver, remove screws at bottom of Door Bottom Channel Trim. 8. Lift inside of door off, being careful not to lose the spacers that are behind the door panel at the upper part of the door. 9. With the nut driver, remove 4 screws that hold bottom trim to the side trim pieces. 10. Remove the old trim and replace with the new. 11. Align the left, right, and bottom trim pieces. 12. Reattach the 4 screws that hold the bottom trim to the side trim pieces. 13. Carefully replace the inside door panel, making sure the spacers are aligned properly between the main door pieces. 14. With the Torx driver, replace the 2 screws at the upper part of the inside of door. 15. With the nut driver, reattach the bottom screws at the bottom of the trim piece. 16. Carefully reinsert the door hinges into the slots (the door must be in the approximate broil position). 17. When hinges are properly inserted, door may be opened all the way. 18. Push the hinge latches back into hinges to secure door to oven.

Read the instructions on how to remove the door, found in the owners manual. Once you release the hinge lock latches, the door can be lifted off of the hinge arms.

It is fairly heavy and bulky. I spread a large towel on the kitchen table and placed the door, front side down on the towel.

Remove the 3 nut screws at the bottom of the door and then lift the inner door assembly up about 3" and hold it up temporarily with a medium sized plastic food storage container. This will allow room to access the 4 nut screws (2 on each side) that secure the trim to the door.

The old trim was somewhat difficult to remove because of years of rust and other build up where the front door glass goes behind the trim. Be careful not to damage the glass. I used a putty knife.

The edge of the glass will be soiled so I used a mild abrasive cleaner to remove the rust and grime, and then used a window cleaning spray to clean the glass.

The new piece had to be "fitted" slightly to match the existing screw nut holes but it goes together quickly.

Replaced