J2S968SH3SS General Electric Range - Instructions
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Sparking at 2 different burners all by themselves
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paul from las vegas, NV
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 7 people
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Oven meat probe broken
This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported.
- works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.
- works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.
Parts Used:
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robert from FAIRFIELD, OH
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
1 person
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Remove back panel or access sensor, replace sensor and panel
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Mike from Glencoe, NM
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
1 person
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Remove and replace Broil (upper) heating element.
Turn off the power to the oven. (There should be a circuit breaker in the main power panel dedicated to just the oven) (the oven should be cool to the touch).
Open and remove the door by pulling it up and off the hinges (this is best accomplished with a helper).
Remove the racks (wire shelves).
Remove the two 1/4" mounting screws that secure the heating element to the back and the two screws that secure the element to the top of the oven..
Gently pull the wires out and disconnect them from the heating element.
Now reverse the process.
Connect the wires to the new heating element in the same fashion as they came off.
Push the wires and heating element back in place and secure with the four screws.
Replace the wire racks (shelves).
Replace the door (again, this is best accomplished with a helper).
Turn the power back on.
Run a test of the broiler to make sure the repair was completed properly.
voila!
Open and remove the door by pulling it up and off the hinges (this is best accomplished with a helper).
Remove the racks (wire shelves).
Remove the two 1/4" mounting screws that secure the heating element to the back and the two screws that secure the element to the top of the oven..
Gently pull the wires out and disconnect them from the heating element.
Now reverse the process.
Connect the wires to the new heating element in the same fashion as they came off.
Push the wires and heating element back in place and secure with the four screws.
Replace the wire racks (shelves).
Replace the door (again, this is best accomplished with a helper).
Turn the power back on.
Run a test of the broiler to make sure the repair was completed properly.
voila!
Parts Used:
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Russell from ARROYO GRANDE, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
1 person
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Lower Oven Broiler Stopped Working
Turned power off to oven
Unscrewed broiler nuts (total of 4)
Pulled Broiler out from back of stove
Disconnected wires
Reconnected wire
Remounted broiler and replaced bolts
Turned power back on
Unscrewed broiler nuts (total of 4)
Pulled Broiler out from back of stove
Disconnected wires
Reconnected wire
Remounted broiler and replaced bolts
Turned power back on
Parts Used:
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Frank from PARKER, CO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
1 person
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Oven lamp globe shattered . Needed a replacement
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Joan from SOUTHINGTON, CT
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
1 person
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Yellow flame on large burner
Removed top grate. Removed burner head . replaced with new burner head. Replaced grate.Very simple replacement. Old burner head was warped with age.
Parts Used:
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Charles from Glendale, NY
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
1 person
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Bake and convection cycles quit working after a10 minutes
Unbolted temperature sensor from back of oven. Disconnect cable connector. Replaced and reconnected new sensor and bolted back in place. Haven’t had to replace bake element yet, but it’s a major job being this GE Profile oven has the bake element hidden. That’s a new one on me.
Parts Used:
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Stephen from Zachary, LA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
1 person
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Temp probe was defective
Threw the old one out - plugged the new one in. Steak came out just as ordered - medium rare.
Parts Used:
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Eric from SOUTHBURY, CT
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
1 person
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very easy
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ROBERT from CYPRESS, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
1 of 2 people
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The Grate foot is to big for the hole.
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Harold from Broadalbin, NY
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
1 of 2 people
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Light bulb went out,could not find replacement part.
Turn the glass enclosure counterclockwise to expose bulb.Turn the power off at circuit breaker panel.Handle the bulb carefully with paper towel covering the bulb.Push the bulb in socket.replace glass enclosure,turn power back on.
Parts Used:
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Gregory from Pearl River, LA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
1 of 2 people
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The Grate Foot was deteriorated on several sections for my cook top. The hardest part was finding the right part.
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Chelagh from Fredericksburg, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
1 of 3 people
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Oven will not heat
As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!
Parts Used:
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Joseph from Homosassa, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
1 of 3 people
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Broken Probe Sensor
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Michael from Tucson, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
0 of 1 people
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