J2S968BEKB General Electric Range - Instructions

I had to drill the hole to a larger size to enable the foot to fit.

As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!

Nothing technical.

Used scribe to remove grate foot plug still in grate inserted new foot.

First remove the screws around the inside perimeter of the door. These require a special hex driver. Take off the inside plastic liner of door.
Peal off the old Insulation Foam Strip and replace it with the new strip in the same location. Make sure the wires are off to the right side. Replace the door plastic liner. Done. The Insulation Foam Strip really acts more like a loose gasket to keep spashing from creeping under the door and drippin out on the floor.

I unplugged the defective plug and replaced it with the new one. Took 5 min total

New burner Heads repaired the two yellow burning units. I believe heat caused the old heads to become. warped over time.

Repair was very easy - less than a few minutes - just had to screw in 2 screws to the new drawer supports.

This was and always will be an easy fix, all I have to do is get my ice pick and pick the broken rubber part stuck in the hole if it does not break clean and fall out. Not much more I can say about this simple problem.

Ordered by phone parts & very pleased with all of transaction.

I ordered the spark module and replaced it which was veru simple, plugged it in and it sparked only now and again. I finally said forget it and it has now stopped sparking but for how long I do not know.

First of all, the sensor had the proper ohm reading...at ambient temperatures. I suspected the sensor because it would jump in large degree increments over 200°F. From what I read online, the only other part that would cause this was a faulty circuit board. I opted to try the $20 part first vs. the $200 part. It worked. One screw on the back top of the inside is all that holds the sensor in. Pull the wires out and you will find a quick-disconnect. New part had the same connector (thank you). Thread the wires back through the hole and replace the screw. Works like a champion (verified with an independent thermometer. That is all she wrote. I only wish I purchased two, since they don't last that long... 4 years...or so. I just bought the house built in 2007 and empty for a year... and it took 45 minutes to cook a pizza, and even then the bottom dough was light. A house without an oven is like a hot dog without mustard!

put it in but it keeps falling out. they're made narrower than my oven grate.

Installed new guides with a nut driver without any problems.

I feel like Macho Mom. I called in the repair guy since I was afraid of dealing with the gas. HE repaired one item but could tell I was comfortable fixing things and pointed out that the gasket was brittle and would cause major problems if not replaced. Took longer to order the part than do the repair, don't know what I was afraid of!