IVS225301 Inglis Refrigerator - Instructions

Our spare 25+ year old Kitchenaid refrigerator (side-by-side model) refused to produce cold air. I could hear mechanical sounds and things "clicking", but the temps kept raising. This specific unit only had cooling coils in the freezer, and some ducts that route cold air into the fridge.

I emptied the refrigerator completely, removed the ice cube bin and shelves, and left it unplugged for two days with the doors open. Once everything was dry, I plugged the unit back in -- within 8-10 hours, the unit was cold again. Lights worked, and fans in the freezer and back of unit worked. However... once the compressor turned off, it never came back on. This told me that the root cause lies with components that control when to turn off/on the cold flowing into the coils.

I looked up my model on PartSelect website, and looked through their "likely to fail" list for my model. The defrost thermostat and defrost timer were at the top of the list, and symptoms made sense. Those two parts arrived within a week. The defrost timer was easy to install -- unplug old, plug in new. The defrost thermostat involved cutting existing wires, stripping a small section of sheathing, and attaching the wires to the new part with crimp caps and electrical tape. The electrical tape was there to cover the exposed area of the crimp cap and bundle the wires together. (I used 3M's "Super 33+".) Finally, reattach the harness to the socket, and attach the other plugs and grounding clamp.

After re-attaching the rest of the required components, I plugged the unit back in. After about 24 hours, it had gone through at least one cycle and was appropriately cold. After letting it churn for another couple days and watching it closely, I felt confident that the problem had been fixed.

** Side Notes **

Definitely use caution around the fins on the coil. For my unit, the harness plug is directly above the fins, and required some effort to safely remove while not slicing up my hands. Extra long screwdrivers and patience helps a lot. Put a wedge behind the wheels of the refrigerator so that it doesn't back away from you while you work. And, of course, do all this while it is unplugged.

** For the PartSelect Website Maintainers **

If possible, please provide some better guidance on where to place the lead coming off the defrost timer. The Youtube video was nice, but some clarity on which pole/spade to attach it to (and where to find that info, besides "consult your manual") would help many people.

I just watched the repair video and did exactly the same thing. One difference was that I disconnected the old fan motor while waiting for the new fan motor to arrive. I just placed and ran a small household fan behind the fridge to act as a replacement so I wouldn't have to listen to that loud fan motor in the interim. Easy fix with simple tools.

Emptied door of food jars etc. Used socked on top plate. Removed door and placed on a flat surface. Used socket to take out cam on the bottom of the door. Replaced worn cam. Replaced nylon sleeve on the top of the refrigerator door with needle nose pliers. Placed door in the bootom slot with the new cam in place. Placed top plate in the new nylon sleeve on the door. Replaced screws with socket wrench.

easy -- removed broken shelves and replaced with new ones

Pot the part on

remove old crisper pan
install new crisper pan
dispose of old crisper pan

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

It took just a few seconds to snap the shelf into place. Thank you for sending the part so quickly.

Removed old thermostat and replaced with new one. The video link in the shipping email was great - really detailed even though it was a simple fix.

The repair video was a great help in this specific repair and matched my refrigerator model exactly. The only issue was an apparent design change in the thermostat that I received. The location of the electrical leads has changed. It might be worth mentioning this in the video. Polarity is not an issue in this case, but if it was, it would be worth noting in the video. So far the refrigerator has been operating normally.

First defrosted it to makes sure all Air flow was opened. Tested the Defroster heater with omh meter, it was OK. Found the location of the defrost timer on the online diagrams. Used nut driver to remove cover.
Replaced timer. The hardest part was decieding how to wire it up, tis was a universal kit and depending on how it was wired as to how often the defrost ran. The firt choice was every 8 hours. Since this was going to be opened often, I picked that one.
Plugged it with in 24 hrs freezer wall mesured -5 and the fridge was at 30, so had to warm it up a bit.
Now all complaints gone, Ice making has been doing better also.

My fridge was not cooling properly as I would have to tap the thermostat at times to get it to kick on again. Ordered the temperature control thermostat from this site t and watched video on how to install. Not hard at all and did it in under an hour. Fridge is working like new..

the piece fit perfectly and delivery was within a couple days. very satisfied.

The refrigerator would make loud sounds humming sounds periodically. The bearings were going out on the evaporator motor. Emptied the freezer side of fridge. Unplugged unit. Took shroud off (6 screws). Removed the three wire clips. Pulled fan off shaft. Carefully pushed plastic strap to remove motor. Replaced with new motor. Carefully attached strap to hold motor. This seems very fragile so be very carefull to attach properly and not break. Reverse the rest and done in less than 15 minutes. 30 minutes cleaning the fridge.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model