IS43000 Inglis Washer - Instructions
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Broken shaft on temp switch!
Took off top by removing bolt and screw. Switch came out with a twist!
Parts Used:
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Bart from Converse, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
11 of 12 people
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Water level switch broke off in the knob.
Unplugged the washer from the power. Turned off the hot and cold water. Took two screws off the back and raised up the upper cover. Took the power cables and water tube loose from the water level switch. Removed the switch. Put the new switch in. Removed two metal clips at the top of the washer and leaned the washer body forward. Replaced the tube with a new one. Put the washer body back in place and put the clips back in. Attached the tube to the new switch along with the power cables. Let the top cover back down and put in the two screws. Slid the new knob in place. Plugged up the washer to the power. Turned the hot and cold water back on. And commenced washing laundry.
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Larry from Hyden, KY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
11 of 13 people
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Washer would not Agitate or spin out. Also noticed an oil leak.
I followed instructions provided from Parts Select for removing and replacing the coupler assembly, and also instructions for changing the clutch assembly. I also took it's transmission apart (socket set and flat screwdriver required), drained the old oil, cleaned it, added new 90W gear oil. The instructions covered the swapping of parts very well. Cleaning up the oil spill took as long as changing the parts.
Parts Used:
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Jonathan from BRANDON, VT
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
11 of 13 people
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Washer was leaking underneath machine
While taking apart my washing machine to clean the plastic basket I discovered the 3 main seals down the agitator were completely disintegrated and water was leaking onto the motor and onto the floor. The seals are a tight fit but slide into place easily with lubrication. When putting everything back together a bit of lubrication will be necessary as well. The leak is gone and my nearly 30 year old washer is working as well as the day it came off of the assembly line.
Parts Used:
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RAY from DEER PARK, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
10 of 10 people
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Washer's Agitator wasn't working
Basic replacement so easy my nine yr old daughter did the needed repair we watched the video on your web site Way to go Alexis . Ten minutes later all done ! Probably saved a few hundred dollars or more, no service calls or no need to replaced our beloved washer (Cira 1994) they really don't make them like this anymore, will use your company again if needed Thanks !!!
Parts Used:
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David from Barrington, RI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Socket set
13 of 19 people
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Washer was leaking.. determined it was center gasket
Completely dismantled washer per video , replaced gasket and spanner nut, then re-assembled washer. I’m a 58 year old female. It was tough. Main issue was that video was for dif. Model washer. Had to figure out some things myself.
Parts Used:
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Diane from BALTIMORE, MD
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
10 of 10 people
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tub oscillation
placed washer on side and installed new pads
and returned washer upright
and returned washer upright
Parts Used:
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leonard from phil campbell, AL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers
12 of 17 people
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Replaced ring that broke and washer that was bent on the edge.
Took the agitator out and gearbox off unhook wires from motor and take off water pump, replaced the parts and put back together. Pretty easy to fix. However, I still haven't got my problem fixed. Originally the washer wouldn't spin after the rinse. I put on a new coupler and it worked for a few loads, then something smelled hot and started stinkin the house up so I opened the washer lid and smoke rolled out. Turned it off. Took the moter off and checked it and it would barely turn at all. Replaced the motor with a new one. Still wouldn't spin. Put on a new clutch assembly. Still wouldn't spin. Bought a new capacitor thinking that would do it. Still don't SPIN!!! (The ring and washer I replaced was just a casualty, not any of the problem).
Parts Used:
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Kim from West Liberty, OH
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
22 of 47 people
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Washer would not wash,spin or drain.
I thought that the lid switch was the problem why the washer would not perform the drain or spin cycle. I broke the lid switch by moving the wires around. I rigged it so my daughter could use it by screwing a screw in the switch til the new one came in. After a few days, the machine stopped working again as stated above with the motor. I purchased a new Whir-pool washer for her and later found a white wire that connects to the electric motor was burnt around the connector in that only one tiny wire was still attached. I reconnected the wire in the connector and the washer started working again.
Parts Used:
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Michael from Covington, LA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
11 of 14 people
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The wash cycle did not start.
First I removed the plastic panels on each side the control panel. Each side was secured by a phillips screw. Once the screws were removed the side panels were easily removed. I tilted the panel back to the rear of the washing machine to expose the lid switch. I first took a picture with my camera phone to ensure installing the switch correctly. I removed a small screw that secured a green ground wire. The lid switch was removed by lifting the plastic catch with a flathead (or slot) screwdriver and uplugging the switch. Reverse the steps and install the new switch. Secure and tighten the green ground wire. The lid must be lifted to properly seat the lid's guide arm into the lid switch. Replace the side panels and tighten the phillip screws. Test the wash cycle using a low water level. It took me 5 minutes to install this part. I am a attorney not a mechanic.
Parts Used:
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Dwane from Cincinnati, OH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
10 of 11 people
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spin cycle was not working / poor
Unplugged the appliance. turned off inlet water and removed hoses. popped the cap off hiding the bolt that keeps the agitator in place and pulled the agitator off. tipped the washer on its front . disconnected the Wire harness. removed the 3 bolts that hold the pump, motor,clutch, (drive assembly in other words). pulled the Drive assembly out of its resting spot removed the bad clutch and replaced it with the new one. then reassembled in reverse order.
Parts Used:
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Craig from Plano, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Socket set
11 of 14 people
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washing machine not draining
Tilt machine on its side,snap off the two retaining straps and remove the pump and sanded the shaft on the electric drive motor to remove rust ,Install new pump and retaining straps and unit now running great.
Parts Used:
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michael from princeton, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers
10 of 11 people
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Tub banged against the front of case during spin
3 online people recommended tilting the machine on the side and replacing the 3 suspension springs. Someone else recommended changing the tub pads. That is the wrong approach. It is actually easier to remove the case than turn the machine on the side. Once you do it once or twice it takes less than 2 minutes and it doesn't distort the suspension. You don't even have to disconnect the hoses. When I originally examined the machine lying on it's side I saw that the tub balance spring was still attached to the tub but the other end had detached. I looked for the place to reattach it. I found a place on the glide plate. Unfortunately this was the wrong place and the machine continued to bang away. When I realized that the spring had to be attached to the lower frame rather than the glide plate (one week of looking). I even wrote to the Repair guru. Once I found my mistake the repair took 5 minutes and no tools other than the phillips screwdriver to take out the 2 screws for the case. I replaced the tub balancing spring for good measure. The machine works great.
Parts Used:
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Peter from Boca Raton, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Washer would not start adjutating unless I opened and closed the lid a few times.
Unplugged the main power. Removed the 2 screws in the back and top of the control panel. Pulled control panel forward and tipped towards me to remove from top of washer. Removed the ground wire screw with a socket/ratchet. Removed the switch by pressing the tap inwards. The tab was brittle and broke. Replaced the switch, ground wire with screw and the control panel. I notice that the 2 screws which secure the switch lever/hinge to the lid were loose. These 2 loose screws were actually the problem in the first place. The loose lever was not making good contact with the switch. I think the switch was actually fine but since I broke the tab on the switch I needed to replace it anyhow. Plugged in power cord and washed a load.
Parts Used:
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Larry from WILLMAR, MN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Washer tub would not spin or agitate and made a high pitch spinning noise during those cycles.
Basically I followed the great instructions provided on the Part Select webpages. I would consider myself to have more common sense than mechanical skill. I didn't want to have to keep going back to purchase more parts so I decided to buy the motor coupler (under $5), new clutch assembly (Under $30), new motor (under $160). The shaft on the original motor wore down to a cylindrical shape which should have been more of a rectangular shape to fit precisely into the motor coupler and provide the grip strength for the washer tub to spin. Usually the no spin problem is linked to a faulty motor coupler. I was glad that I had to removed the motor to reach the motor coupler because in my case the coupler had not failed. That is when I saw the motor shaft had worn. Since I had all the new parts I replaced them all and since 6/13/19 the washer is running like new. Oh, the problem was most likely caused by someone in my family "overloading" the wash machine one too many times over 11 years. Guy's / Gal's you can do this and save yourself from buying a new washer for between $850 - $1,200. My repair expense was under $240 including tax and next day delivery of my parts. Thanks Part Select !!!! Neil
Parts Used:
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Neil from Winfield, IL
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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